Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think it all really depends on what the purpose you have for the car is. If you are after basic/intermediate levels of tuning for street and the occasional track day, it's tough to go past the PowerFC as it's pretty much plug n play and can do nearly everything most people want.

If you want the best of the best and have the $$$ for it, you're definitely looking at either the Autronic or the Motec ECUs. Both have more parameters and controls than you could ever use but neither are plug n play and take plenty of time to install, tune and properly setup if you want all the goodies.

Have a look at the following threads for more info:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...tronic+power+fc

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...r%20fc&st=0

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry1024327

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;#entry931292

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;#entry716558

That should keep you going for a little while otherwise try using the search option in the top right of the menus.

you sound confused

i think you mean to wish to remove the factory airflow meters

600hp is fine with airflow meters

but if you insist motec and apexi powerfc will support no airflow meters

safc II will not support no airflow meters and wont go anywhere near 600HP

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You beat me to it, I was going to say this -  And this -  Sounds like things are coming along pretty well and your learning heaps along the way. 
    • It's the same ABS unit from the old shell.  It was all just lifted and shifted.  I am looking at the BMW MK60 ABS unit as a budget upgrade, as I'm not keen on handing over 15k for a Bosch unit.  
    • Bear in mind RBs tend to be pretty terrible for fuel economy and it heavily depends on driving style. In my experience with a heavy-ass turbo Stagea the 10l/100km is really just ideal conditions highway driving. Start-stop in the city is killer and it ends up being 16-19l/100km easily. I keep track of it every time I get fuel and it is never pretty. There are a few topics in the forums where people share their fuel economy if you want to get some ideas of what it can be like. I don't think it is worth that much to compare though because it depends so much on the driving.
    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
×
×
  • Create New...