Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im in the process of buying 2 amps for my 6x9's/splits and sub. came across this thing on ebay.

i think its a little out of my $500 budget

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/soundstream-class-a...1QQcmdZViewItem

would something like this really make that much of a difference considering for the same price you could deck out a whole car? WTF?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172460-10000aus-ebay-amp/
Share on other sites

well you can get mono block pre amps that cost over 30,000 each. then you also need a power amp, a source and speakers.

So that is fairly cheap.

Quality hi-fi ie nothing you will find at any standard retailer, costs a lot but is worth it.

My dad has spend at least 30,00 on our hi-fi and it consists of 2 speakers, an amp, and a cd player.

they look sweet... but cost price is about $2500 not retail it retails $8000 .. was going to get one but to much bling for me..

And didnt wanna make dr doof doof upset :)

btw that amp is not worth 10g thats a picaso neways which is old and is look orintated vrs sound output .. but the soundstream im talkin bout is big boom boom forgot its name but its chrome and a meter long

Edited by DECIM8
"soundstream class a picasso (CHEAT AMP) rated at 25 watts RMS * 4 at 12 volt at 4 ohms one of the worlds best sound stage amps"

can you explain why this is worth 10k FRX? i always love learning new things :)

firstly, i dont think it's worth 10k at all. in my other post i stated these used to retail brand new for arounf $2500.

$10000 is ridiculous for this amp.

The main reason why people would have bought this amp is that is massively under rated.

at 4 ohm it is 25rms x 4. At 1 ohm lets say 125rms x 4.

Back in the old days people used to buy amps with a small power rating that would load up, this was done for SQ competitions where you had to fit into a power class. Power classes were determined on the rated rms power at 4 ohms. But if you could have an amp where if you wired it up a certain way you got more power then you had the advantage.

At one stage soundstream produced an amp that was 2 x .5wrms. Yep half a watt per channel at 4 ohm. But, load it to 1/4 ohm and it would run about 600 rms. Sure the amps got hot, sure it shortened their life. But it also made some tech head wankers able to say there car was less than 3 watts rms and could produce 150 db+.

Buy todays standards of D-class amps this is out dated.

If anyone was to buy it they would only get it because it is old skool soundstream, not the new stuff that is crap.

firstly, i dont think it's worth 10k at all. in my other post i stated these used to retail brand new for arounf $2500.

$10000 is ridiculous for this amp.

The main reason why people would have bought this amp is that is massively under rated.

at 4 ohm it is 25rms x 4. At 1 ohm lets say 125rms x 4.

Back in the old days people used to buy amps with a small power rating that would load up, this was done for SQ competitions where you had to fit into a power class. Power classes were determined on the rated rms power at 4 ohms. But if you could have an amp where if you wired it up a certain way you got more power then you had the advantage.

At one stage soundstream produced an amp that was 2 x .5wrms. Yep half a watt per channel at 4 ohm. But, load it to 1/4 ohm and it would run about 600 rms. Sure the amps got hot, sure it shortened their life. But it also made some tech head wankers able to say there car was less than 3 watts rms and could produce 150 db+.

Buy todays standards of D-class amps this is out dated.

If anyone was to buy it they would only get it because it is old skool soundstream, not the new stuff that is crap.

Couldnt have put it better myself

A few years ago I had a listen to an awesome hi-fi system at a store. It was amazing (I heard instruments in some songs on a CD I took with me that I'd never heard before), but the setup cost about as much as my car.

^^^

It is quite amazing isn't it. Being able to pinpoint individual instruments around you, and if it's setup correctly (espcially with no rear speakers, which are useless in music) it's amazing how you can certain certain instuments around the room coming from different places.

I used to own a Marantz setup. I like my music and so I didn't want to buy some shitty Japanese mini system, but at the same time I couldn't (and wouldn't want to) spend the big dollars. I just tried that rig out to see if it was that good.

I'd still rather spend the $50,000 that setup cost on a car. And that setup wasn't even using the top-of-the-line components offered by the store.

even though marantz is good, it is not real hi-fi stuff. Some stuff is just on a completely different level, Mind you dad did have a chinese made SACD player for a while. It used a sony transport and DAC and was really good till it died. (dodgy sony parts) and it was a cheap SACD player. But hearing a reference sony sacd player is amazing as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...