Creative in cabin amp locations

[[SKYHI]]

Hi 

I have decided to do an audio install in my 96 GTR I am hoping to find any creative ideas out there for mounting positions of the amp and subwoofer inside the cabin and not in the boot 

I know I may not be able to have the woofer in the cabin and it may end up in the boot but I thought I may throw the question out there and see what others have done. 

 

 

Also anyone know of a head unit with a single din back attached to the top of a floating screen that I can  install in the bottom din slot so the screen covers that din and the ashtray / lighter position so I have no need to move the HVAC controls 

 

I know U can get the new gearshift surrounds with a new slot for the HVAC controls but they are stupidly expensive and always out of stock 

Check out photos attached if your confused in the location and position of what I'm talking about 

 

 

[Murray_Calavera]

Would something like this fit under the driver/passenger seat? 

Might not need to worry about a standalone amp this way as well. Just run the speakers from the headunit and the sub is self powered. 

https://mm.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/BASSPRO+SL2-.html

[Duncan]

I'm not saying the audio quality is any good (it does have an amp module you can mount on the din frame which seems to improve that) but I recently put an ATOTO S8 android head unit in the stagea.   The one I used was double din but as it is very shallow the amp mounts in the same space as an old school head unit as well.

They have Single DIn models with adjustable floating screen that might suit, like this (note there seems to be stock issues on their single din stuff atm) : https://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/AV_Receivers/Over_7/ATOTO_S8_Gen2_8_Single_DIN_Android_Auto_Wireless_CarPlay_S8G1A84SD

I liked the fact it is open andriod so I can install any apps eg Real Dash, also has HD rear camera, front driver recorded, car wifi, tpms,  etc etc

[GTSBoy]

WRT subs in a Skyline, my approach was just to mount suitable** 6.5 sub woofers in the parcel shelf and drive them from the sub outputs of my head unit (yes, my head can unit can be set up to use the rear outputs to drives sub(s) directly - odd, I know). But you could obviously do the same with a discrete amp in the boot.

**Means with suitable T-S parameters for mounting in a very large enclosure or infinite baffle. This is directly the opposite of what most sub driver designers are doing, because most people want to stuff the most sub into the smallest enclosure possible. But they do exist.

[MBS206]

A creative mounting location would be from the roof.

We totally need to bring back ludicrous stereo designs from AutoSalon days...

[Ghosty033]

On 19/03/2024 at 8:06 AM, GTSBoy said:

WRT subs in a Skyline, my approach was just to mount suitable** 6.5 sub woofers in the parcel shelf....

curious to know what drivers you chose and the results?

quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.

[GTSBoy]

11 minutes ago, Ghosty033 said:

curious to know what drivers you chose and the results?

Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB.

They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm

But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway.

As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!

[dyl33]

Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable.

Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high. 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I know you said no amps in the boot, but there's enough space next to the battery for a pair of modern small foot print amps OR one small 6x channel amp.

This is what I did over 6 years ago, used 2x marine amps (no decent 6x or 5x channel amps back then)

[[SKYHI]]

On 29/04/2024 at 9:56 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I know you said no amps in the boot, but there's enough space next to the battery for a pair of modern small foot print amps OR one small 6x channel amp.

This is what I did over 6 years ago, used 2x marine amps (no decent 6x or 5x channel amps back then)

 

[[SKYHI]]

Oh this is definitely a spot I didn't think of it might just work for my amp thanks so much I appreciate U taking the time 

[R3N3]

I thought about a floating dash head unit in my 33 but I decided against as I thought it would just get in the way of aggressive gear changes and when mounted that low you have to look away from the road (vs glancing across like modern car screen positions). I went with a Sony wireless CarPlay head unit:

For the amp and sub, I made up a panel to mount to the side of the boot:

the sub is a small kicker tube sub that fits above the fuel hat (you have to relocate the HICAS ECU).