Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CP'S are good. they usually mesure up all the same. (no variation in size)

wiesco are also very good but usually reqire individual boring as they vary in size a little. ie 1-3thou diferance in diametre

both need balancing and both use good rings (file back) and wrist pins :) but both like all american pistons have a faily loose piston to bore clearance. so unless the ring gaps are perfect they will "breath" a little

CP'S are good. they usually mesure up all the same. (no variation in size)

wiesco are also very good but usually reqire individual boring as they vary in size a little. ie 1-3thou diferance in diametre

both need balancing and both use good rings (file back) and wrist pins :) but both like all american pistons have a faily loose piston to bore clearance. so unless the ring gaps are perfect they will "breath" a little

i dont like cp rings, i would substitute them.... but like R31NISMOID said listen to your builder as there are some brands i just wont use and some require more work to get satisfactory results...

oh yeah do not use thier recommended piston to bore.... way to big.

CP'S are good. they usually mesure up all the same. (no variation in size)

wiesco are also very good but usually reqire individual boring as they vary in size a little. ie 1-3thou diferance in diametre

both need balancing and both use good rings (file back) and wrist pins :) but both like all american pistons have a faily loose piston to bore clearance. so unless the ring gaps are perfect they will "breath" a little

breath a little, as in show leak on a leakdown test ?

Can get both for the same money, so it seems the cp ones are the best choice ?

and R31Nismoid, builder doesn't know which one is better :banana:

edit : hmmm,mr uras above seems to not like the cp ones ?

Edited by -wj-

I work for someone who happens to do alot work with CP PISTONS and abit of WISECO...

The way i look at it is.... If the V8 Supercars and numerous Top Door Slammers use CP Pistons and we havent seen a failure because of a cp piston or ring (aslong as there installed properly!!!!!!) then i think that speaks for itself.

Wiseco arent even in the same league..... there measurements for standard off the shelf pistons vary way too much and dont even get me started on there custom pistons!!!

The only problem with CP PISTONS is the timeframe for custom pistons..... 6 - 8 weeks (but we havent had any returns of custom pistons yet, they look and perform unreal!)

Cheers BOOSTA (Pete)

breath a little, as in show leak on a leakdown test ?

Can get both for the same money, so it seems the cp ones are the best choice ?

and R31Nismoid, builder doesn't know which one is better :banana:

edit : hmmm,mr uras above seems to not like the cp ones ?

Thats a warning sign mate.

If a builder has to ask which are better suited then they havent built an RB before, and certainly havent used a range of pistons.

Is there anyone else you can use? Its a big expense to stuff up :)

Thats a warning sign mate.

If a builder has to ask which are better suited then they havent built an RB before, and certainly havent used a range of pistons.

Is there anyone else you can use? Its a big expense to stuff up :)

the man has done alot of work for me, always top notch. Just no experience with RB25DET's.

so now we have Boosta and Uras saying 2 very different things :banana:

Any more opinions ? I'm leaning towards the cp ones, by te way....

WJ........

CP Pistons speak for themselves...... go have a chat to engine builders who use them in many different applications!

The way i look at it is, the proof is in the evidence of the product and the people who use them, I have seen Cp's in engines from the V8 Supercar Engines to V8 Twin Turbo'd Dune Buggies to 2 x Lamborghini V12 engines.

They all use the CP Pistons and the Ringsets provided by CP to suit the pistons.... Having said that Cp Pistons arent responsible for people who sell pistons with the wrong ring sets in them.

Wiseco are great for lots of different options but if you really are chasing pistons that are above the normal.... CP's are a great choice,

Cheers BOOSTA (pete)

WJ........

CP Pistons speak for themselves...... go have a chat to engine builders who use them in many different applications!

The way i look at it is, the proof is in the evidence of the product and the people who use them, I have seen Cp's in engines from the V8 Supercar Engines to V8 Twin Turbo'd Dune Buggies to 2 x Lamborghini V12 engines.

They all use the CP Pistons and the Ringsets provided by CP to suit the pistons.... Having said that Cp Pistons arent responsible for people who sell pistons with the wrong ring sets in them.

Wiseco are great for lots of different options but if you really are chasing pistons that are above the normal.... CP's are a great choice,

Cheers BOOSTA (pete)

I tend agree with the wiseco comment, we used a lot of wiseco pistons in race bikes (with no dramas) but i have heard from plenty of skyline guys (not from personal experience mind you) that the wisecos are not the greatest.

comparing V8 supercars and top fuelers to your average rb is hardly a good comparison.

Overall the most important factor with pistons is the machinst and the installer.... both of with determnine the sucess or failure of a build. I can recount 100's of stories of late of customers who have engines built that are so loose they trip the knock sensors..... these were built by so-called reputable shops.... the same guys who build top end v8 engines...

I haven't heard of any CP's failing for reasons of bad manufacturing but I haven't heard of any Wisecos doing that either. Have you Pete? (Not attacking, just asking.)

I used Wisecos because they have a longer skirt so I think they stay more square in the bore which should long term result in less bore wear. Also the skirts are teflon coated from factory so less friction.

I think they recommend something like 5-6 thou piston to bore clearance (can't remember for sure though tbh). I used 2.5 and have had no issues.

I haven't heard of any CP's failing for reasons of bad manufacturing but I haven't heard of any Wisecos doing that either. Have you Pete?

I think they recommend something like 5-6 thou piston to bore clearance (can't remember for sure though tbh). I used 2.5 and have had no issues.

yeah same deal with ARIAS, i use alot of ARIAS (great cheap piston) in jap engines and unless you tighten them up they rattle like all hell and you get excessive ventilation.

URAS... and ABO,

Your both correct, the wiseco's are a decent piston and readily available in many different shops.... In the end if the engine builder doesnt know how to install pistons correctly (hell CP even have instructions to follow for there pistons and rings)

As for the difference between the V8 supercar pistons etc, they are all made by the same machinists at CP Pistons and with the same material as ur standard off the shelf Forged Rb20, Rb25, Rb26, Rb30, Rb30/25/26head, etc etc <--- CP Stock

The only difference in the standard forged pistons to the customs is things like X Forgings, lateral gas ports, vertical gas ports, anti detonation grooves etc etc ( plus the basic things like to suit certain applications etc and heads, pin heights, flat top, dome, or dish, blah blah.... skirt length can be changed in custom aswell.

I have seen and spoke to many different workshops within Australia and we are still waiting to see a Real CP PISTON Failure...... or even a Ringset Failure that hasnt been caused by incorrect tunning (detonation)

Some of the shit I have heard scares even me sometimes with regards to what people do to engines,

Cheers BOOSTA (pete)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...