Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do a search this has been covered many times. not many mods need to be done as they both obviously use the T3 flange, main differences are the snorkel/elbow whatever u want to call it which comes off the comp. housing (few options there) and the actuator, RB20 actuator will hold more boost stock (without a controller). pretty straight forward but try and get all the lines etc just incase something doesnt line up.

I put an RB25 turbo on my RB20 about 2 weeks ago. Haven't got an ecu/tune yet so only running 12psi but it goes MUCH harder than the RB20 turbo.. just takes an extra 800-1000rpm to come on boost :) Oh and it will also hold the boost till redline, had it at 14psi but it was pinging over 6000rpm so dropped it back to 12psi (to give me a bit of leeway on cold nights) until I get a tune.

I put an RB25 turbo on my RB20 about 2 weeks ago. Haven't got an ecu/tune yet so only running 12psi but it goes MUCH harder than the RB20 turbo.. just takes an extra 800-1000rpm to come on boost :) Oh and it will also hold the boost till redline, had it at 14psi but it was pinging over 6000rpm so dropped it back to 12psi (to give me a bit of leeway on cold nights) until I get a tune.

So its even more laggy??

Mine comes on boost at 3,000rpm, so ur saying it wouldnt come on till 4,000rpm now?

My Rb20 turbo used to start spooling a little over 2000rpm with full boost by probably 3000rpm, now it starts spooling around 3000rpm with full boost by about 4000rpm. My standard injectors and fuel pump are going fine, got an 044 to go in probably this weekend though. Then save for an ecu :thumbsup:

Edited by bubba

completely depends on ur tune as to how the turbo will react, u really need to get it tuned. im in the same boat, put mine on and have been too lazy to get it remapped, so lag is pretty brutal and im only running 8psi, but it still goes hard considering. main thing ull notice is up high where the RB25 turbo keeps on truckin where the rb20 fades off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...