Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i do agree with you JimX, but if there is no wear, then there are no particles to blacken the oil... if it is still wearing, the particles have to go somewhere!

I perhaps didn't explain myself fully - when i had my last oil change my mechanic did an engine flush - put this cleaning agent through the oil system for 20 mins. As a result any residual bits of crap were flushed out, and basically you're left with a internally clean motor.

After filling with new oil, it would stand to reason that

1. if the oil is doing its job and protecting wear, there will be relatively few small unfiltered particles

2. the oil will stay cleaner longer, instead of being contaminated by residual particles

3. being a jap engine and having extremely fine tollerances, wear should be minimal (has anyone ever owned a honda? if you look at their oil after 10000K they still run clean)

4. again i agree with you, oil is there to both lubricate and protect, as well as clean away contaminants.

I guess what i'm really trying to say after all that is: it is possible for the oil to run clean whilst still providing perfect protection....

ahh, i think i've gone cross-eyed :)

It's a common misconception that more viscosity=better lubrication. It doesn't. You only need thick oil for a worn engine. Thick oil usually won't hurt a new(er) engine, but it costs you power and economy for no reason. You're not getting any better protection out of thicker oil if your clearances are still tight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...