Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just after a bit of advice have been looking at a 1.2mm trust gasket for my rb25det but they offer them in either 87mm or 88mm can anyone tell me which one i would need or how to tell which one i need.

bit up in arms and want to get it right

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173995-trust-metal-head-gasket/
Share on other sites

and whats meant to be the ideal comp ratio? 1.6 wouldnt that give you close to 8.4:1 compression ratio?

Are you being a smart ass?

I have been told the ideal compresion is 8.6:1 achived by a 1.6mm head gasket.

I have no dramas with it.

your ideal comp ratio all depends on your setup and what boost your going to run its an individual thing. ie if your gonna run 28psi through a 3540 then a 8.6:1 you might want 8.0:1 as an example but if your running 14psi through a small turbo then theres nothing wrong with 9.0:1

there is no ideal comp ratio..... machine the head and deck the block and a 1.6mm head gasket is not going to have the same effect as 1.6mm on a stocky..... h/g size is relative to application and there are plenty of differrent comp ratios that achieve the same goal... i know of a certain supra making over 600rwkw on an engine with higher comp than std.... horses for courses.

just a quickie how do you know what compression ratio you are running is it just what someone has told you or did you have it tested

ill be running 555cc injectors remap ecu and a trust tdo5h-15g turbo what compression ratio (gasket) is required for around a 250rwkw application

just a quickie how do you know what compression ratio you are running is it just what someone has told you or did you have it tested

ill be running 555cc injectors remap ecu and a trust tdo5h-15g turbo what compression ratio (gasket) is required for around a 250rwkw application

dont even bother std is fine for that setup, done a few now. Just make sure you get a good remap.

Im going h/g even though I only want to push 250rwkw daily and 280-300rwkw max seeing as I will be drifting the car a bit

I'd rather have a bit of a safety net there seeing as I dont wanna have to rebuild the motor or replace it anytime soon

I know a 20 can take a hell of a bashing probably due in part to its comp ratio

Edited by 1400r

hi all

from what im led to belive

is that running a highr comp ratio than standard is a good thing you will make the same if not more power with less boost and have more bottom end torque=off boost response, but on the down side of things your tuner has less "room"or much narrower window so to speak to tune in regarding getting timing, a/f maps etc rite.

Im going h/g even though I only want to push 250rwkw daily and 280-300rwkw max seeing as I will be drifting the car a bit

I'd rather have a bit of a safety net there seeing as I dont wanna have to rebuild the motor or replace it anytime soon

I know a 20 can take a hell of a bashing probably due in part to its comp ratio

Does zero for longevity, but it will allow you to run more boost if your turbo is inefficient at lower boost levels. This is where turbo choice is most important.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...