Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am regrettfully putting up for sale my Drift Machine, due to work commitments and location it is impossible for me to Slide atm.

So instead of the car sitting in a garage it should be out on track smokin.

The Drift/Track Skyline comes with a car trailer which has tyre racks and long alloy ramps to make transporting the car effortless.

The car has done 2 rnds SD, 1 rnd QR and 10 practice days and been well looked after.

CAR

Nissan Skyline R32 4dr

7pt Safety 21 GTR roll cage

Racing Logic coilovers 12K front 9K rear

R33 Calipers & Rotors

Adj Suspension Arms Front & Back

Extra Lock Steering/Tie Rod ends

Locked Diff

Whiteline Front Swaybar, GTR Rear

GTR bonnet

Rolled guards Front & Rear

BN Front Bar, Uras Sides, Rear pods

D1 Carbon Fibre Wing

Border Carbon Fibre fixed back Race Seat

Sabre Racing harness

GTR intercooler

Remote Oil Filter/Cooler

Strut Braces Front & Rear

3.5" Custom S/S Exhaust

17x9.5 Koya Drif Teks GTR Offset x 2 SETS all with brand new tyres.

Alloy wheel nuts-Blue

40mm Alloy Radiator with Twin Thermos

3.5" one-piece tailshaft

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

2L Alloy Surge Tank with AN fittings

R33 Gearbox

NPC 2800pd 5puk Clutch

NPC Billet Flywheel

Momo Steering Wheel

Microtech LT8 & Dash Mount

Blitz Boost guage

Autometer Oil Pressure guage

ENGINE

RB26/30 Engine with Cometic Head Gasket-(Fresh Build)

GTR cams

Polished Intake Plenum

570cc Injectors & Custom Billet Fuel Rail

SARD Fuel Pressure Reg with Guage

Stainless Split Pulse Exhaust Manifold Top Mount

GT35/40 Turbo .86 rear

46mm w/gate 14.7psi dumped atmo

ACL Race Bearings

Hastings Moly Rings

7L Baffled Sump

Alloy Breather/Oil Separater Tank

4" Intake/Filter

400rwhp or 300rwkw @ 14.7psi or 1bar

** SOLD **

PM for any more details/pics etc

post-8690-1182763988_thumb.jpg

post-8690-1182764070_thumb.jpg

post-8690-1185074473_thumb.jpg

post-8690-1185074510_thumb.jpg

Edited by pssiii
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174163-r32-skyline-4dr-drifttrack/
Share on other sites

Cheers msport180

I think your R34 4dr looks tuff as, nice colour.

Yeh, all the hard work's done....!

thanks!!!

yeah its the orange that does for me, like a moth to a flame :laughing-smiley-014:

Still looking very nice, my mate bought your ute which is the one in that pic towing I'm guessing? Just curious, was this your car or PSI's?
Yes, thats the ute that I did the 2jzgte Auto conversion on, fantastic tow car.

The car was a non compliable shell we had at PSI, I built the car and all parts used on the car were supplied by myself, I was a partner at PSI and ran the workshop inc building drift cars and conversions even painting.

Cheers

PPL this car has it all (mods, knowledge when put together, and tuning) this machine is more reliable than my daily drive. I know of more than 190hr spent on this car.

The mechanic who worked on this car is a true professional and perfectionist. He had a datto 1600 sedan with a CA18 that beat my mates RB25 sprinter (mind u it ran 11 secs quaters every day of the week) reliably every day of the week.

This car is a true work of art Good luck with the sale.

The person who buy's this machine will be satisfied 1000% through and through.

Peace out.

Edited by DRF72

Thanks Luke,

You make it sound like I know what I'm doing...!

There has been more like 500hrs+ building this car...!

It is still a fresh build with plenty of life left in it...!

Will definately suit someone wanting to drift at high level or track sprints.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...