Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now i have a problem people every time i drive into my driveway i hear a metal clunk like somthing is loose with the right wheel but i have inspected any loose parts i.e checked the suspension, bushes are near new, wheel bearing i think seems to be ok, and the brakes are tight so is the wheel nuts and im not sure if it would be the steering? or the ball joint?

also happens when u try reverse parking and u move forward then u revers and then press the brake it makes a clunk?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174239-load-clunk-at-the-front-of-the-car/
Share on other sites

Check your brake pads and see if the shims are all there.Should be 2 little ones on inner and outer with 2 large ones on each pad backing.The clunk you hear could be the pad moving back and forth .

check the nut that attached the rack to chassi, mine was loose and for ages i could hear a light glunk and knock over unever road on the left front. It fooled me becasue the nut is on the left hand side of the rack in the hr31's.

I have this exact problem... pedders didnt find shit, they went on about some bush which they 'modified' but the noise is still there.

It happens mostly on directional change as he mentioned. I get it when im reversing out of my driveway... then when i go to take off forward it normally happens. ALso when i am reversing, turning and braking it also happens.

yeh i know i just found out yesterday they couldnt find it also but they mentioned my big pivot behing the brake sits on is moving but there not 100% so im stuck i dont know wat to do now i dont want to spend money on changing things that are okay....

I've got the same problem too! I had a abit of a geezzer and there's abit of play between the rack end and the steering arm

I don't know if this is what's causing the clunk as I only had a really half arsed look.

i had a sound in the car which sounded clunky as i ran over a bump or something it sounded like it was in the front but people outside the car (as i was pulling up outside work one day) said it sounded like rear... for a long time before that i thought it was front strut damage or something to do with suspension, but in the end it was my center cap on rear wheel piece over my volk racing wheels... didnt matter how much i tightened it, it still clunked. ended up putting a piece of rubber under the cap... stopped it...

i had the exact same problem mate. mine would clunk when braking for speed bumps, turning into my driveway, when braking heavily etc. i fixed the problem by using a breaker bar to tighten my sway bar 'D' bush mounts and crossmember bolts. the problem was fixed!

i had tried installing newer bushes for the swaybar link bits and new rose jointed castor rods also but they didnt help.

I have the exact same issue.

Especially the reversing and then braking issue.

My wheel alignment guy found the problem.

My front upper control arm bush was shot, allowing the control arm to float backwards and forwards into the car body.

He noticed it via the tiny amount of rust where it was hitting and slight scraping/ding.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...