Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Wont Start

SL1D1N

By SL1D1N,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SL1D1N Collaborator

SL1D1N

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have recently put a big turbo on my gtst and after having it running without an exhaust, (just to make sure it still runs) it wont start. I get a warning light of the dash coming up when i try to start it.

The car does not crank at all, when you go to crank it all you here is a click, sounds like its coming from the starter motor. Battery is fine, and also my windows dont go up or down now could this be the same problem?

I think the warning light might be exhaust gases or something.

Any ideas,

cheers

Edited by SL1D1N
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175263-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites
KISIN Veteran

KISIN

Posted
Posted
I have recently put a big turbo on my gtst and after having it running without an exhaust, (just to make sure it still runs) it wont start. I get a warning light of the dash coming up when i try to start it.

The car does not crank at all, when you go to crank it all you here is a click, sounds like its coming from the starter motor. Battery is fine, and also my windows dont go up or down now could this be the same problem?

I think the warning light might be exhaust gases or something.

Any ideas,

cheers

Had that happen to me recently and it was the battery (drained by the alarm coz i haven't started up the car in a while)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175263-car-wont-start/#findComment-3212342
Share on other sites
SL1D1N Collaborator

SL1D1N

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have charged the battery since then and had it running also tryied to jump start, i know what its like when the battery is dead. Its not like that its a single click coming from the starter motor area. Also i think a exhaust fault lamp comes up as well just as the keys turned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175263-car-wont-start/#findComment-3212840
Share on other sites
Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted
when you go to crank it all you here is a click, sounds like its coming from the starter motor.

also my windows dont go up or down now could this be the same problem?

2 signs of a stuffed battery. Even if it was something like a seized motor, if you had a good battery your windows would be working?! Did you disconnect the battery when installing the turbo? didnt do something stupid and hook it up backwards by mistake?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175263-car-wont-start/#findComment-3213030
Share on other sites
SL1D1N Collaborator

SL1D1N

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nahh disconnected the battery when did the turbo, will have a play with it and get back to you, im starting to think im the immobiliser.

thanks for the help

sorry didnt realise was still in mates user

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175263-car-wont-start/#findComment-3214868
Share on other sites
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

jack power from someone elses car...

you may get that extra volt or two that you need if the other car gives it a rev...

if it doesn't crank then, think about sourcing a new starter motor, or get your alarm looked at...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175263-car-wont-start/#findComment-3214883
Share on other sites
SL1D1N Collaborator

SL1D1N

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK i need help BAD

Battery is fully charged and have tried to jump start off other vehical, also tryied role start but wont start.

Both windows stopped working at the same time the car stopped starting.

Turn the key one turn radio and clock turn on and work fine.

Second turn all the usually lights come on and my safc turns on and still everything works fine.

Go to crank and you can here a single click from the starter motor area and the exhaust temp. warning lamp comes up. Could this lamp be the problem

Help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175263-car-wont-start/#findComment-3222409
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...