Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i'm new here,

Basically i'm looking to do an RB25DET conversion in my HR31 GTS-X. I have had a few engine and gearbox packages comp tested but have been low. I am in the Northern Suburbs of Melbourne Vic

I am in need of.

RB25DET full motor including starter, Altenator, Turbo, Injectors, CAS etc etc

Manual ECU and FULL Wiring loom including throttle position sensor, oxy sensor, AFM, coilpacks and ignition module if S1 and temp sensors

RB25DET manual gearbox and decent clutch (can be standard just in decent condition for use)

Preferably the Yoke for the gearbox also so my tailshaft could be modded to fit.

Basically anything else I have left out to get the engine up and running in my car, carwill be engineered so standard parts needed.

Have had 3 failed comp tests and all engine packages were $3400 or less including one NEO 25DET. R33 S1 or S2 will do fine, preferably something thats in a car and can be seen and heard running i.e rear end wreck but as long as a compression test can be done in front of me and the engine is healthy i'd be happy.

Thanks guys

Liam

Edited by FordyR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175392-vic-delete-please/
Share on other sites

I have rb25 box, with yoke, clutch fork, slave cylinder etc.

email [email protected] if interested

In Bris

Cheers

Thanx but I need the whole package all bolted together ready to be put into the car, get get the loom wired up and drive it out.

Liam

we can help, please email us at [email protected]

thankyou

I am looking at one this weekend, its all organised and the guy has gone to the trouble of putting back into a stacked 33 so i can hear it running and test it. Great price aswell... just wondering on what ur prices r for my whole conversion kit as I will be interested if this 25 fails a comp test on saturday, otherwise i'm pretty happy with the deal im getting from him should everything go as I would like it.

Thanx

Liam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...