Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ya'll, i like many people have a bit of a crunchy box - gearbox that is.

The most apparent and common crunch is definitely 1st -> 2nd.

we all know it gets better as things warm up, but while it's cold (and even while its warmed up for that matter) give double clutching a go!

you can do it with a little throttle blip if you really want a'la double-down-shifting, but it's not really necessary in everday driving.

instead of just:

pushing in the clutch; and

shifting the stick down through neutral to second

release clutch

do this:

push the clutch in (doesn't have to go all the way)

move the stick from 1st to neutral

release clutch briefly

push clutch in again

shift from neutral to 2nd

release clutch

it takes a while but if you are used to double down-shifting, it should be a breeze. if you're not used to it - it's a great way to get used to the motion of double-clutching and will put you in good stead to start double down-shifting and start saving your clutch and synchros.

i know this has been mentioned before in other "crunchy gearbox" threads, but i thought i would bring some attention to it as maybe there are other people who are nursing their gearbox and/or clutch until they can afford to replace them.

cheers

eh? didnt you miss the step where you blip on the throttle as your in neutral, just before u shift into 2nd?

In cold mornings it wont even shift into 2nd for me. Pop it into neutral, a slight blip on the throttle, and then it easily slides into 2nd :)

yeah i mentioned that you can if you want, but just driving around town, throttle blipping when up shifting isn't usually necessary.

however if it helps your changes i'm not going to tell you not to do it :)

Edited by made_guy
But really, its not how its meant to work, and your gearbox is shagged, its time to look at getting it fixed as all you are doing is masking the problem.

lol yeah a rebuilt gearbox is somewhere on the to-do list.

but in the mean time, best to squeeze as much life out of the current one before it dies ;)

Isn't this general knowledge?

my box is a bit like that in the cold... i could use some new gearbox oil though... very common skyline problem...

i heard that its normally 2nd to 3rd though... i think they said that on Top Gear :)

but yeah, gearbox still works, its just a minor annoyance... no need for a whole new gearbox...

I always double clutch down thru gears in my car. My gear box in my subaru 4WD lasted me bout 420,000km ish before i swapped it out by driving in this style. Mydad used to have the car so he done bout half of the kms but i stretched its life out by always double clutch.

Only reason i took gear box outta the car is because the syncro's were screwed and was starting to get a bit of a handfull to use. Also i had a spare kicking round with only 150,000kms on it, so it only made sense to change the rooted one out.

But yeah i would easy make it too 500,000 kms if i kept up with the double clutchin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...