Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just got an email from Autoworx stating that Alistair (known as arkon on these forums but has since changed it to something else :worship:) is know the new owner of Autoworx Imports on Wangara, which is known for importing fine examples of skylines and many more imports.

Congratulations Alistair, you have 7 years of big shoes to fill but i know your up to it :)

sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175585-congratulations-alistair/
Share on other sites

When I was first looking to get an R33 I went to autoworx with it not being far from home, and although I decided to import a car instead, from just from speaking to him about them he set me right on getting one. Might have to pop in next week to wish him luck

yeh ill be popping in aswell to wish him luck,

my dad was skeptical about buying anything that was an import, he talked to paul for 5 mins before coming to get me to choose 1 of 2 silver series 2's lol

my dad wanted to buy an auto for me but Pauls kind words showed him that a manual would have been better (which i agree with :thumbsup:)

any time i go there paul will answer any question i have about my car even if that meant missing out on his lunch

Bought my SII Sedan at autoworx. Paul was a good guy to deal with, kept the shop open for me after hours to come in, as i flew down from Broome that day. Hope you keep up the good service and rep.

Yeah and start complying 1998 JZX100s, and i might buy my next car from Autoworx :thumbsup:

good luck

Evil

Quote Paul:

"Why on Earth would you want to keep that piece of shit civic... I mean really mate..."

Said it to my friend.... All class..

It is official, Alistair's old Ceffy was 100x better than my mate's civic...

oi, cheers for the R34 manual Alistair! Good luck aye! I'll have to pop around to pass my gratitude and best wishes on to Paul...

Edited by Marco-R34GTT

bought a r33 turbo 5spd sedan through Paul in '05, definately one of the best in the business.

All the best to the new owner, and if the car bug gets me again, and I want a 33 GTR, I will be back to see Autoworx.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...