Jump to content
SAU Community

Not The Normal Gold Brembos Swop Problem

RSVFOURUK
 Share

Recommended Posts

RSVFOURUK Collaborator

RSVFOURUK

Posted
Posted (edited)

This was going to be so easy as I had done it before on my other stagea so.......

I took the gold brembos (origonally from a R34gtr) with the larger R34 discs off my other Stagea .The calipers have already been modified with insets to use 12mm bolts instead of the r34gtr's 14mm and find......

My other Stagea ( which is also a series 1 , March 1997 to be exact) has got 14mm bolts (not 12mm ) with what appears to be normal Stagea calipers and discs. Certainly 2 pot working together on only one side.

The same as standars ones.

So what hubs have I got ? with 14mm bolts .

Help please

Edited by RSVFOURUK
fergo308 Rising Star

fergo308

Posted
Posted

my S2 Stagea RSFOURV ran 14mm bolts in it's std 2 pot front callipers. I'm now running R32 GTR callipers up front with 12mm bolts,and haven't had any dramas. once they're torqued up it's not going to make any difference. not ideal,I know,but there's not THAT much force involved that they'll move around once done up properly.

Justin...

RSVFOURUK Collaborator

RSVFOURUK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well at least I know ive got series 2 hubs etc. and thats why the bolts are 14mm

My problem is twofold . First the series 2 calipers wont fit the rb25 stagea so I will need some 12mm calipers if I swop the brakes.

Secondly the other stagea has an rb26 in it and is manual - it realy does need good brakes .

Also I will do some track days . So for me 12mm bolts in 14mm holes round a track with around 425 bhp is not an option.

Thanks for the info though much appreciated.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

I am having a little trouble getting my head around the actual problem you are having. Are we talking about the hub retaining bolts or the caliper retaining bolts?

Secondly, are you talking about 12mm thread size or head size? You made need a vernier caliper to figure this out properly.

If you can answer these I may have some suggestions....

Oh, and Leshy, do us all a favour and stick this in your sig :)

151153961588sm1.png

RSVFOURUK Collaborator

RSVFOURUK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Problem is now solved , I will take the insets out of the brembos and put them in the 14mm calipers - both will then fit . Much more of a pain than anticipated buts thats life. Thanks for the info and especially

Thanks verry much two termnal four pointing out a spellin misstake .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...