Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Last night was pretty crap, heading off to the gym at Knox, P plate driver didn't give way to me as i was going around a corner, collected the rear right quarter of my 32. Damage isn't too bad, just a bit dinted and a deep scratch starting about middle wheel arch and heading back towards the rear of the car. Pretty low speed so nobody was hurt (which is the most important thing!)

Anywayz, I'm looking for a few panel beaters to get some quotes, just wondering if anyone can suggest some places where they have had good results.

The kid who crashed into me has a family friend at "Brett Lacey Panel Beaters" on Highbury road, i said i would contact him first just because it was their preference (and i'm just a nice guy ha ha :sorcerer:). Has anybody been to this place before?

Any help would be most appreciated,

Thanks very much guys :rolleyes:

Ps: Yep, i've done the old "search" and found a few places like "police rd panels" and "DT panels" which have both come up quite a bit, so i will be checking them out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175983-hmmm-had-an-accidnet/
Share on other sites

hey mate, sorry to hear..

i had a couple of nightmares with 2 different shops in the past but the third and last shop i went to i was most pleased about the work/service..

Police rd Panels in mulgrave, near the spagetti junction.. they do just car insurance work so they deal with imports often..

hope everything goes well..

Hey mate,

Thanks for your quick reply, yeah for sure, they are on 'the list' of people to see lol, still hasn't really sunk in that i had an accident

Ahh well, happens to the best of us eh :sleep: ,

Thanks again,

Sean

Lacey's does good work but they're expensive

Hey mate,

Where abouts are they located?

I don't think the price is going to bother me to much because their insurance will be covering it

Thanks for your help :sleep:

Sean

hey sean dah y didn't you call me, i can hook you up with laceys if you want i sell them heaps of stuff at work they do really good wor they are top class, although if you want to go one beeter i have quite a few that i could orginise quotes with, but brett's awesome to deal with

Micolour in Cheltenham (03) 9555 8011. Mick painted some of my car for me and am very happy with the results.

Hey Fry,

Cool, thanks heaps :P, awesome news to hear your car turned out well!!

Colour is one thing that i'm kinda worried about, fixing the dent is one thing, but then getting the colour right so it doesn't stick out is a different kettle of fish eh :nyaanyaa:

Cheers,

Best regards,

Sean

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...