Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no prob.. only gts at the moment.. and if this works out.. we can get some gtt badges cheaper i hope for you r34 guys :nyaanyaa:... No more gtr badges on gtst's.. no reason to do that now :laugh:

If you make a list or G/b can you please pm me as I'm not on the net that often, I'm definitely in for the GT-T badges

Cheers :P

Just a quick update from me, the badges are now in production and they are due to be shipped to me on the 23rd July (5 days shipping time) once I have them and payment has been made to me from you guys I will ship to seriesII so everyone who ordered a GTS badge should have them by around the 3rd Aug.

GTT badge update - I am in the process of having a single unit manufactured so I can see the quality for myself before I commit to placing an order, for those interested in a GTT badge please let me know by way of a PM. Obviously manufacture time here will be a few weeks longer as I will only get to see the physical quality around the 27th July. The price of these badges will depend on the quantity I order and the British £ to Aus $ exchange rate, but I will keep you posted on that front.

regards

Andy

Edited by andy kain

The badges do come with very srong 3m tape on, I designed them this way, because if someone really wants the badge off then better let them do it without the screwdriver, if you know what I mean. However the person who fitted the badges above used additional contact adhesive and now its pretty much impossible to get it off without taking the grill with it.

Edited by andy kain

Guys,

sorry to say that the group buy failed as the qty of 20 was never reached, so if you would like 1 or more of these badges please email me at [email protected] and I will cost badges per individual and send them out as single packages.

Andy

Ok the GTS badges have arrived here with me from my manufacturer, they are ready to ship out, so if you would like 1 or more please get in touch. The cost of a single badge will be $68 + $13 P&P, if you require 2 badges the cost will be $64 each +$13 P&P. If you require any more contact me for an individual price :stupid:

Andy

Edited by andy kain

Hey mate, to be honest - although I really want a GT-S badge - would mind 2 actually but it's around $100 inclusive postage hence it's a bit steep. Can't you do them for any better? For example, say, $60.00 plus postage as a group-buy?

Well with todays currency, which is this

Live rates at 2007.07.26 17:55:33 UTC

60.00 AUD = 25.6492 GBP

Australia Dollars United Kingdom Pounds

1 AUD = 0.427486 GBP 1 GBP = 2.33926 AUD

I would love to be able to offer them for $60 + $13 P&P...... I know that you all be pleased to see such badges and if I can get 15 sales (thats 30 badges) then I can do them to you for that price.

:thumbsup: cant say better than that :thumbsup:

Now who would like a badge?

Please email me at [email protected]

At the moment though I can only accept paypal, in order for a cheque to arrive and clear it would take in excess of 3 weeks. Paypal is instant :thumbsup:

Edited by andy kain

Incidentally, those who would like a GTT one, I currently have this on ebay, I will be getting more but the manufacture process is taking longer than planned.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1

Cheers

why not make them 64 or lower and create a group buy?
Hey mate, to be honest - although I really want a GT-S badge - would mind 2 actually but it's around $100 inclusive postage hence it's a bit steep. Can't you do them for any better? For example, say, $60.00 plus postage as a group-buy?

i wouldnt comlain guys $68 is cheap his top responce on ebay paid £52 pounds

A1 ebayer! Great communication and an absolute gent. Many thanks

llerraflanod ( 25 [Feedback score is 10 to 49] )

25-Jul-07 10:37

Nissan Skyline R33 GTS metal badge (#320135564128) £52.00

which in AUD

52.00 GBP = 122.200 AUD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...