Jump to content
SAU Community

Alarm

russky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Darckness Apprentice

Darckness

Posted
Posted

I bought my car from a dealer + when he explained the security in the car he said he'd left the stock immobiliser in + added the proximity sensor immobiliser as well, giving me 2 different immobiliser setups...

If I don't hit the 'unlock' button on my key remote, the car won't start. It'll keep turning over, but refuses to start. It self arms this as well. If I turn my engine off + don't lock the car, I still need to hit the unlock button to disable the security + start my car.

And of course if the proximity sensor isn't next to the ignition, the car won't start.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3611471
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
So the factory alarm is supposed to be stripped as part of compliance? If so, what is the little fob thing on the key chain for, and also the sensor looking things on the dash? Do they do anything?

who did the compliance on it? if ISASO then it was me that removed it. I've had 3 of them disable 3 cars on me so when I do the compliance immobiliser them they come out. its not factory anyway. they are dealer fitted and some of them are barely fitted. most are in with scotch locks and they are ALWAYS loose.

the black tag on your keyring(autowatch badged) is the Immobilser. two pt std issue. the round thing below the boot release switch that looks like something pushes into it does nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3612926
Share on other sites
karim Explorer

karim

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

just a quick note about the adr82/00.. if the vehicle is fitted with a factory immobiliser there is a way around having to replace it

dotars recognise the ULC-S338/98 which is the canadian standard for immobilisers (all vehicles in canada must be fitted with an immobiliser whether stock or aftermarket)..

The ULC-S338/98 does mention the Infiniti v35 so all you need to do is prove to dotars that the v35 and g35 have the same immobiliser (which you can grab of the Nissan Fast system)

We have been using this evidence for most vics and dotars have never questioned it...

hope this helps

cheers,

k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3613715
Share on other sites
jaxxon Apprentice

jaxxon

Posted
Posted

I'll apologise in advance for my lack of knowledge both in this area, and cars in general. So I have the keychain thing, the two sensors on the dash, a small light just under the clock that flashes once the keys out of the ignition, and a red light labelled "Security" to the right of the steering wheel. Do I have an immobilisor or an alarm, and if so, how can they be activated?

Also, I got the car from a dealer in Sydney who do their own compliance.

Sorry again, this isn't really my thing! If I was in Brisbane, I'd be over seeing Chris Rogers already!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3615516
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

word of advice- leave it all alone. if you activate it by mistake (IF it works- see other post ) then you have stranded yourself. if you have the nissan branded tag press it into the slot below the steering column. that will activate the dealer fitted alarm. the OE one 1s self triggered. the autowatch one is the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3615654
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...
rawzz_v35 Enthusiast

rawzz_v35

Posted
Posted (edited)

any of the alberts stores. see cannington and speak to pete. get them to toss a autowatch 446 P in it.

Hi Chris,anyone you could recommend in Melbourne?

Edited by rawzz_v35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-6401388
Share on other sites
IMPORTD Grand Master

IMPORTD

Posted
Posted

ok so stopped down at Alberts today. They are going to put in a slightly different system that runs off my car key. $550 installed.

Sound about right? I asked for the Autowatch 446 Premium, but Pete was talking something slightly different.

Once its booked in, I'll let you know exactly what it is :)

Thanks again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-6405179
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...