Jump to content
SAU Community

I wanna buy a gtr r33... help


Recommended Posts

I would look around the market before choosing a colour. The reason being is with 2nd hand cars you wont always get your choice of colour. Look around and see what takes your fancy. Normally what happens is you walk into a car yard and see a skyline and say THIS IS MY CAR!!

  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Devilish Angel

i like this person...

and isn't 4wd safer cause better controle too???

but the lights on the 34 look good..

argh..

dilemma!!!

No! They're not! All car's have a limit, and when you break the limit in a 4wd, it'll really let you know about it.. My old man's friend *had* a 4wd subaru liberty. Until he hit a guard rail one day and wrote the car off. He believed that his 4wd car would be safer.

It's not power that kills. It's how it delivers the power. RB25 produces it's power more linear and smothly compared to an RB26, which is pretty much all or nothing.

Also a GTR 4WD is not like a WRX 4WD. WRX's 4WD system make any driver look like a future rally star, where a GTR's 4WD seperates the men from mice.

Devilish Angel: Whats the fastest car you have been in ??

Personally i think Gt-t's, gtst's and GTS 25t's are more dangerous then GTR's espically in the wet.

Make sure this is a car you REALLY REALLY REALLY want because at your age thats alot of money which could used alot more productively.

Ok heres what you do.

As cost of car and insurance isnt the problem, buy your dream R33 GTR.

Now the only thing is the fact that other people think you will right yourself off because of the power. And it would seem you are starting to listen to this.

Simple solution is to get your hands on a Power Fc computer for your car. This allows you to tune the car for more hp. Only what you should do is before the inlet manifold place an orifice, with say a 25-30mm opening.

This will limit airflow and reduce hp, you can tune the ECU to allow for the drop in airflow. You will probably have as much hp as a V6 Commodore, and still have 4wd.

You can also but a butterfly valve in the exhaust that will choke up flow and drop off boost pressure, but this wouldnt be so nice for the turbos.

You still have to respect that any car that moves can be overdriven and crashed, so you still have to be just as careful.

Then as you gain experience and become comfortable with driving, you take out the orifice and re-tune the Power FC and, voila, back to stock hp. (actually more if tuned properly)

Hows that for an idea.

Originally posted by Roy

Ok heres what you do.

As cost of car and insurance isnt the problem, buy your dream R33 GTR.

Now the only thing is the fact that other people think you will right yourself off because of the power. And it would seem you are starting to listen to this.

Simple solution is to get your hands on a Power Fc computer for your car. This allows you to tune the car for more hp. Only what you should do is before the inlet manifold place an orifice, with say a 25-30mm opening.  

This will limit airflow and reduce hp, you can tune the ECU to allow for the drop in airflow. You will probably have as much hp as a V6 Commodore, and still have 4wd.  

You can also but a butterfly valve in the exhaust that will choke up flow and drop off boost pressure, but this wouldnt be so nice for the turbos.

You still have to respect that any car that moves can be overdriven and crashed, so you still have to be just as careful.

Then as you gain experience and become comfortable with driving, you take out the orifice and re-tune the Power FC and, voila, back to stock hp. (actually more if tuned properly)

Hows that for an idea.

You could do that

or

You could secure a block of wood under the accelerator pedel so you can't floor it.

Devilish Angel: seeing as you have been in a evo6 so you probably know the performance of these cars and you think you can handle it both from a skill side of things and mentality.

Get your GTR and come cruising :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...