Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think someone needs to start a sticky on this issue considering both the amount of threads and misinformation out there.

I had this intense squealing problem after swapping to DBA 4000 rotors and Endless pads. In trying to retify the problem, I've been to three workshops, swapped in and out five sets of pads (including Ferodo and Bendix Ultimate, Advance and Heavy Duty) had the rotors machined twice and on and off the car countless times, even tried the above combinations with standard rotors. I had the calipers rebuilt at considerable expense, tried a variety of shims, goos and compounds trying to get them to shut up.

Currently, I'm back to standard pads with the DBA 4000s with custom shims, and the squeal is still there on occassion but bearable. My pedal feel, and general braking power, however, is poor.

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I think someone needs to start a sticky on this issue considering both the amount of threads and misinformation out there.

I had this intense squealing problem after swapping to DBA 4000 rotors and Endless pads. In trying to retify the problem, I've been to three workshops, swapped in and out five sets of pads (including Ferodo and Bendix Ultimate, Advance and Heavy Duty) had the rotors machined twice and on and off the car countless times, even tried the above combinations with standard rotors. I had the calipers rebuilt at considerable expense, tried a variety of shims, goos and compounds trying to get them to shut up.

Currently, I'm back to standard pads with the DBA 4000s with custom shims, and the squeal is still there on occassion but bearable. My pedal feel, and general braking power, however, is poor.

I reckon its just part of the parcel. If you want uprated/upgraded brake pads, be prepared to get some noise. some will squeal more or less than others, but it comes down to the compound of the brake pad, and regardless of what you do it will squeal to some extent.

dude, do not put silicone, or sellys gap filler, or plaster of paris on the back of your pads. none of it will help and all of it will destroy your pedal feel.

you need to use either the marketed brake anti-squel grease, or high temp copper grease. put some on the back of the pad, place on one shim, put on a little more, then the vented shim, then some more, then the angled shim. do not use too much as you don't want it getting on the pads friction surface or on the disk.

dude, do not put silicone, or sellys gap filler, or plaster of paris on the back of your pads. none of it will help and all of it will destroy your pedal feel.

you need to use either the marketed brake anti-squel grease, or high temp copper grease. put some on the back of the pad, place on one shim, put on a little more, then the vented shim, then some more, then the angled shim. do not use too much as you don't want it getting on the pads friction surface or on the disk.

hahahaha yeah I figured that. I haven't got anything on there now except for the shims. I'm not concerned about it any more so it doesn't matter ;)

I reckon its just part of the parcel. If you want uprated/upgraded brake pads, be prepared to get some noise. some will squeal more or less than others, but it comes down to the compound of the brake pad, and regardless of what you do it will squeal to some extent.

I think u should quit with the "Pads squeal".

If everything has been installed correctly, and has been done according to how it should be then pads wont squeal.

FYI, nissan include copper grease a part of the shim kit. I used it and have never had any squeal or noise from the rb74's i have in their now. These are a slightly more expensive pad than bendix crap too, and i only use em on the street.

Ive had my callipers rebuilt, the new rotors machined, new pads installed, new shim kit and everything is quiet. Do a have arse job and just slap in new pads, then dont do the "bedding in" period (Yes this means matching the surface of the pad to the rotor, or removing any compound from the pads manufacture) and u will have problems.

I think u should quit with the "Pads squeal".

Hmmm

If everything has been installed correctly, and has been done according to how it should be then pads wont squeal.

Tell that to oblivo.

FYI, nissan include copper grease a part of the shim kit. I used it and have never had any squeal or noise from the rb74's i have in their now. These are a slightly more expensive pad than bendix crap too, and i only use em on the street.

As I said "some will squeal more or less than others" or some may not at all.

Ive had my callipers rebuilt, the new rotors machined, new pads installed, new shim kit and everything is quiet. Do a have arse job and just slap in new pads, then dont do the "bedding in" period (Yes this means matching the surface of the pad to the rotor, or removing any compound from the pads manufacture) and u will have problems.

Like you have pointed out, it could be a combination of things. But it still doesn't mean that even if you do all the appropriate measures to prevent it, it's not going to stop it completely in all cases. Quote from Bendix for the Ultimates: "Low noise and quiet operation." They never said it was ever going to be a silent pad. Some people have problems with noise with them, some people don't.

As I said "some will squeal more or less than others" or some may not at all.

Like you have pointed out, it could be a combination of things. But it still doesn't mean that even if you do all the appropriate measures to prevent it, it's not going to stop it completely in all cases. Quote from Bendix for the Ultimates: "Low noise and quiet operation." They never said it was ever going to be a silent pad. Some people have problems with noise with them, some people don't.

as i said, if brake pads are installed and run in properly they WONT <----read WONT- sqeal.

It can stop completely.

I dont quote manufacturers, i just install pads -bendix, etc. u name it- properly and it has never failed.

LOL rightio ;) My arguement still stands. What about pad compound? That's got heaps to do with it too. So your saying if I ran a set of dedicated race pads, if I bed them in, I'm guarunteed to not get squeal even for street use & light braking?

Edited by KeyMaker

I've had 3 sets (or is it 4 now???), and when installed properly they don’t squeal.... EVER!

Unless I do ALL of the following, they will squeal.

- Once old pads are removed, spray the pistons on the callipers with some degreaser, and wipe the pistons down well

- clean the anti-squeal shims with some degreaser and steel wool, until all goo and brake dust has been removed (NOTE: doesn't have to be degreaser, anything that gets that shit off is fine)

- spray some anti squeal brake glue on the shims EXCEPT on the sides where the shims rub together. So, on the side of the shim that will touch the piston, and on the side of the shim that will touch the back of the brake pad.. (NOTE: I don’t know if this is the right way to do it, but it works for me)

- spray some anti squeal brake glue on the back of the brake pad

Put brakes back in.

- go for a drive down the street, and do about 5 to 8 HARD stops from 60 km/h down to 10 km/h (without skidding, invoking ABS, or coming to a complete stop)

- finished.

This works for me every time.

Also, just to note:

- once I put the anti squeal glue on every surface of the shims, and it still squealed

- another time I didn't put any, and it squealed

- another time, I cleaned the shims, didn’t put glue, and it didn't squeal?

So, my directions above may not be the only solution, but it's the only solution that has generated no squeal for myself consistently.

LOL rightio ;) My arguement still stands. What about pad compound? That's got heaps to do with it too. So your saying if I ran a set of dedicated race pads, if I bed them in, I'm guarunteed to not get squeal even for street use & light braking?

thats a pointless argument

Yes thats fair enough. I was just using it for examples sake. Brake pad compounds differ from pad to pad. From what Bl4cK32 is saying that it dosent matter pads you use, proper installation of them will ensure in no squeal. ;)

Yes thats fair enough. I was just using it for examples sake. Brake pad compounds differ from pad to pad. From what Bl4cK32 is saying that it dosent matter pads you use, proper installation of them will ensure in no squeal. ;)

No i said depending on what u do with your pad if u install and run em in right then no pad will squeal.

I dont know where u went off at right angles....

Edited by Bl4cK32
No i said depending on what u do with your pad if u install and run em in right then no pad will squeal.

I dont know where u went off at right angles....

Ok here we go. In my other post I did refer to running in/bedding in as part of it.

Please see here....

LOL rightio :D My arguement still stands. What about pad compound? That's got heaps to do with it too. So your saying if I ran a set of dedicated race pads, if I bed them in, I'm guarunteed to not get squeal even for street use & light braking?

And this here is a continuation of my arguement. I did not feel it was necessary to include all information twice.

Yes thats fair enough. I was just using it for examples sake. Brake pad compounds differ from pad to pad. From what Bl4cK32 is saying that it dosent matter pads you use, proper installation (insert bedding in comment here) of them will ensure in no squeal. :D

I'm saying it again.

It still doesn't mean that even if you do all the appropriate measures to prevent it, it's not going to stop it completely in all cases. Some people will have problems with noise, some people don't.

To say that "depending on what u do with your pad if u install and run em in right then no pad will squeal" is not true. Yes it will help and can stop or minimize squeal, but it will not always work in all cases. In a perfect world maybe, but not here :D

I'm not trying to prove you wrong, I'm just trying to say that proper installation and bedding in procedures will not cure all squealing problems.

Cheers ;)

I'm not trying to prove you wrong, I'm just trying to say that proper installation and bedding in procedures will not cure all squealing problems.

In your case, u can live with sqealing brakes. In my world, no one has to live with a shitty job done wrong.

this is one of the dumbest things ive read all day!!!i am a mechanic and i work at a reputable business in melbourne and if i fitted pads in a customers car and they sqeeled they complain.street pads wont sqeel unless theyre in wrong.instead of fitting your pads at home dont be so tight and get it done at a MECHANICS!!!!!then this wont happen..also some race pads sqeel but im talking about REAL race pads for track only.and thats usually only using cross drilled(crap)rotors.

In your case, u can live with sqealing brakes. In my world, no one has to live with a shitty job done wrong.

It is a very common problem that is not always simply fixed.

Sorry for any inconvenience or offense I may have caused you.

Cheers & peace brother.

Edited.

Edited by KeyMaker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...