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10 Psi Boost With One Peice Hose To Actuator On Std Skyline


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well it has FMIC and big exhaust but ever since i did those to my std skyline 10 psi is the lowest i can get it too.I put a manual bleed valve on it and wound it right down to try lower it to no avail.

Trying to problem solve i look out the bleed valve i put in and hooked up the actuator straight to the intercooler pipe(manifold) with nothing inbetween and the boost is still 10 psi???It is actually more gradual and smooth but it would be good if i could get it down to 7 psi again to problem solve my cutting out under load.

I also just found no 2 spark plug(but all others like new) with white powder on the outside like a battery clamp goes powdery!!????like what tha!

a picture is in the general maitanance thread

does a actuator work on pressure forcing it open and holding that psi?

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I have a feeling its your boost controller (t-peice)

Ok so i tested my friends turbosmart single stage controller. On lowest setting it was still at 0.6 bar-0.65 bar- spiked to 0.8 bar at times..

im like, hmm lowest setting and its still more than stock boost (0.5 bar)?? *confused*

But sorta didnt bother me for a while...

Anyways, put my old gfb bleed valve back on, and i can seem to turn it right down and be stable.. I mean, it will still spike at times under full load, but that would be normal since we do have bigger exhaust, pod filter etc.. (since more air is still coming thru, its pushing more in)

Thats the way i think of it.

Maybe try another bleed valve and see if it helps in any way..

Ps- change all your spark plugs again.. Then check after a week and see if that plug is still going white.. If so, take it to a shop n see what it could be..

Edited by siddr20
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I think everyone has missed the most improtant question. r32 actuators run 9-11 psi (depending on how much restriction is removed).

r33 actuators run 4.5-6psi (depending on how much restriction is removed).

What car do you have? What actuator do you have?

If you have an r32 or 32 actuator, then put a 33 actuator on, and the boost will be lower.

I have a 33 actuator here if you wanna swap

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I think everyone has missed the most improtant question. r32 actuators run 9-11 psi (depending on how much restriction is removed).

r33 actuators run 4.5-6psi (depending on how much restriction is removed).

What car do you have? What actuator do you have?

If you have an r32 or 32 actuator, then put a 33 actuator on, and the boost will be lower.

I have a 33 actuator here if you wanna swap

its a 96 series 2 GTST RB25DET with almost no intake or exhaust restriction and i just seen 13psi(spikes) with no bleed valve installed!(just 4mm hose to actuator)

can someone pls clarify how it works ,less presure to actuator =more boost or the other way around?

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can someone pls clarify how it works ,less presure to actuator =more boost or the other way around?

i think bleed valves work by restricting the air going to the acuator. if you tighten the bleed valve the actuator read's that it doesn't need to open yet, allowing your boost to be higher.and if you loosen the bleed valve it doesnt restrict the air flow to the actuator so it will actuate at a lower PSI. this is what i've gathered from other peoples threads.

if im wrong "can someone pls clarify",

good luck.

Aif

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Bleed valves work by bleeding off some of the pressure that would otherwise be seen by the actuator. As a result, you need to produce more boost so that the actuator "sees" the boost you want.

The wastegate is opened by excess boost. It has an internal spring that sets the opening pressure. So you can never get less boost than the setting of the wastegate spring. If you only want 7psi, then remove the bleed valve (put it back to standard).

DO NOT EVER EVER EVER remove the hose from the wastegate. Unless of course you enjoy patching the holes the pistons will make as they fly skywards through your bonnet.

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i think bleed valves work by restricting the air going to the acuator. if you tighten the bleed valve the actuator read's that it doesn't need to open yet, allowing your boost to be higher.and if you loosen the bleed valve it doesnt restrict the air flow to the actuator so it will actuate at a lower PSI. this is what i've gathered from other peoples threads.

if im wrong "can someone pls clarify",

good luck.

Aif

all my manual bleed valves say tighten for less boost and u cant breath thru them for lowest boost is what i have ??exact oposite to what people have said :)

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As I have have recently found, In standard form they boost around 5-7psi but when you open the intake and exhaust it flows better cos it has less restriction, so inturn boosts harder.

If you plug a hose straight from your actuator to your intake pressure nipple, whatever that reads is the lowest it can go.

Mine has Cold airbox, FMIC,and Full Exhaust and 12psi is the lowest I can get.

Hope this helps.

Dave

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As I have have recently found, In standard form they boost around 5-7psi but when you open the intake and exhaust it flows better cos it has less restriction, so inturn boosts harder.

If you plug a hose straight from your actuator to your intake pressure nipple, whatever that reads is the lowest it can go.

Mine has Cold airbox, FMIC,and Full Exhaust and 12psi is the lowest I can get.

Hope this helps.

Dave

yes 10-12 (min) is what mine is at and i have had to go to .5 plugs to stop spluttering!

Im starting to get it the spring is pre set to go in one direction but the presure on the oposite direction can altered to fight the spring into opening?

should i have bleed valve from near manifold or near turbo nipples?

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I've tested this. No matter how much retsriction was removed - fmic, full exhaust, no muffler, metal cat. The boost was still 6 psi. shouldn't be 10-12.

So with just a line running from a pressure source, straight to the actuator, it still ran 10-12?

post a pic up of your wastegate actuator?

It appears that you either have a 32 actuator, an aftermarket actuator, or someone has shortened the rod on your 33 one (increases boost).

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I've tested this. No matter how much retsriction was removed - fmic, full exhaust, no muffler, metal cat. The boost was still 6 psi. shouldn't be 10-12.

So with just a line running from a pressure source, straight to the actuator, it still ran 10-12?

post a pic up of your wastegate actuator?

It appears that you either have a 32 actuator, an aftermarket actuator, or someone has shortened the rod on your 33 one (increases boost).

I have a few pics I just took in the dark, Actuator..Sorta,Actuator Rod and Plumbing.

post-34973-1184752868_thumb.jpg

post-34973-1184752896_thumb.jpg

post-34973-1184752927_thumb.jpg

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Im interested in this guys. My car turns into a giant vacuum cleaner at over 4500 revs cause the boost hits about 14psi. Makes little power here and goes way harder if i back off a little.

I have full straight through exhaust, front mount and a stainless steel intake. I run no boost controller and have a straight tap off of mr piping. the car used to run normal boost and i havnt touched the actuator since my mods. Is my system just too free flowing?

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I think it might be to do with more flow, bigger exhaust and better intake, as I have got the same thing here freed up my system than installed an Auto Meter boost gauge and im hitting 1 bar (14.7psi) on high boost.

The way I look at it is now it is freed up it will be harder to get less boost, bleed valve might work but the system is working better, one way is to maybe put in an exhaust valve half close to restrict flow and noise, and when ya want to have some fun just open it to full open and wala.

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i have FMIC, 550cc injectors, dump with 3inch stainless, hks pod, bigger turbo, walbro fuel pump, microtech ecu, and im not running boost controller, but my car runs 7psi, sometimes spikes around 10psi and i dont have the bov hooked up

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its a 96 series 2 GTST RB25DET with almost no intake or exhaust restriction and i just seen 13psi(spikes) with no bleed valve installed!(just 4mm hose to actuator)

can someone pls clarify how it works ,less presure to actuator =more boost or the other way around?

If you put a different hose running from your intercooler pipe to the actuator you are running more boost because there is less pressure going to the actuator so the wastegate doesn't open and keeps building boost. The standard vac line that runs to the actuator has a restrictor in it that reduces the diameter inside the hose. A smaller diameter means higher pressure - higher pressure means wastegate opens earlier creating less boost. Imagine it like having a pea shooter - with the thin pipe it will shoot quite far due to the greater pressure but if you had a large diameter pipe with a pea in it it wouldn't go very far. - hope that makes sense :pirate:

That coupled with your new exhaust.

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