Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Did Plugs @ .5mm And Kung Pow!im Back!

cosworth1971
 Share

Recommended Posts

cosworth1971 Community Regular

cosworth1971

Posted
Posted

after installing a FMIC & big exhaust my car was blah! blah! blah! @over 3/4 throttle underload.did all the coil pak epoxy and ran down to .66 and it was still hesatating :angry:

So advancing timing made it seem better it was masking the plugs because @ 25-30 btdc timing it wouldnt lag and the less the timing the worse the lag

But just then i tried .5 copper plugs and went back to 15 deg timing like it should be and POW! no more blah!blah! or power stumble and it even spiked to 13psi without lag :woot:

So guys with std coil paks and problem even try down .5 IMO

Im so happy i have my car back after 15ooo kms of trouble :laughing-smiley-014:

My theory is that weak coil paks and preasure dont mix(blows out spark) so if like me and cant afford splitfires yet try .5 for a tempish fix :)

also i was a bit scared to do up plugs fairly tight(without too much!) but found i was doing them a bit lose :)

<saves for new coils now with confidence thats it :)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The car will be more efficient with a better gap on the plugs.

So you might aswell start budgeting for new coil packs.

The gains outweight the cons.

It will get to a point where even .5mm wont work, so definately a temp fix, thats all the epoxy/tape/small gap ever has been

cosworth1971 Community Regular

cosworth1971

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The car will be more efficient with a better gap on the plugs.

So you might aswell start budgeting for new coil packs.

The gains outweight the cons.

It will get to a point where even .5mm wont work, so definately a temp fix, thats all the epoxy/tape/small gap ever has been

yes i will save mate.

either it was the gap or the copper plugs?i went .5 straight up <from .66 irids but it alowed me to come back to 15 BTDC

and yes a bigger gap will burn more and economy but do u think power up also?and im talking over 1-2 kw

clkngezz Enthusiast

clkngezz

Posted
Posted

wow, i would think that .5mm is going beyond border line, is it safe to do for a limited time?? i need new splitfires to but need cash to get them, im looking for a temp fix for about a month, i tried taping coils but it didnt do a thing! my problem was similar to yours, car hesitates after 4500 rpm now to about 6 then powerful again. IM wanting to try this but is it safe? can it cause more problems

cosworth1971 Community Regular

cosworth1971

Posted
  • Author
Posted
wow, i would think that .5mm is going beyond border line, is it safe to do for a limited time?? i need new splitfires to but need cash to get them, im looking for a temp fix for about a month, i tried taping coils but it didnt do a thing! my problem was similar to yours, car hesitates after 4500 rpm now to about 6 then powerful again. IM wanting to try this but is it safe? can it cause more problems

problems like what?its only a spark.no like your changing its timing or votage........it may be smaller but under cold extreme presure the small gap has more chance to fire every time and not get blown out.yes a nice big spark will burn better but we all arent rich.im saving now

but my problem was different to yours it never went powerfull again after 6 it just couldnt take WOT under load full stop.

yes it may be crude but im broke atm

maybe going from the iriduims to copper plugs helped also?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
well, my tuner didnt seem to think so, and hes got a very good reputation, especially around here and with RB's

Well im glad i dont take my car there :D

I didnt need a gap smaller than .8mm running 24psi/360rwkw on stock coils & ignition as mine were in good nick.

So if you need to run less and think its acceptable, thats your decision. Im just telling you i feel there is an issue wether you want to fix/investigate it or not is again, your decision.

moonus Experienced

moonus

Posted
Posted

the problem is the coils breaking down but id rather run the smaller gap even if it is a short term solution then have the misfire. Evenutally i will replace with splitfires but given the budget im on, i dont really have any other option..

cosworth1971 Community Regular

cosworth1971

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well im glad i dont take my car there :)

I didnt need a gap smaller than .8mm running 24psi/360rwkw on stock coils & ignition as mine were in good nick.

So if you need to run less and think its acceptable, thats your decision. Im just telling you i feel there is an issue wether you want to fix/investigate it or not is again, your decision.

OMG 24psi @.8 on stock coils :blink:

0.8mm or even closer to 1.1mm would be ideal

Man! your hot! :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...