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Pineapples In Forward Position


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After having my subframe held in place by the whiteline pineapples,I always new they weren`t really doing that much.So,a couple of days ago I decided to take them from the standard position, which is just bolting them on underneath the subframe,to putting the front ones in between the subframe and chassis.

Well,blow me !! What a transformation.No movement at all.No body roll.No clunks,squeeks or NVH.The handling is so stable I feel like it is a new car.This is the squat position (that sounds weird) and people say the front end will push too much if powering out of fast corners due to unloading the front end under power,but this is not true.I didn`t notice any squating even when deliberately trying to light the tyres out of corners,only traction and handling that is very,very predictable.The car simply rockets out of corners where as before it would simply light the tyres and go nowhere.Mind you,I can still get it to light up but I can apply alot more power now before it does.

Now I also notice my ceramic clutch doesn`t shudder so much nor the rear end feel like it`s rocking back and forward when taking off from a standing start.Also,the car is so much quiter over bumps.Now I`m going to put alloy locking disks in the back of the subframe and see what happens.Will get the traction rods from Just Jap and that should do it.

King springs.

KYB shocks.

Whiteline caster bushes.

Whiteline rear camber bushes.

Unique Auto sports diff bushes.Coming soon.

Whiteline front camber bushes. Coming soon.

Whiteline pineapples.

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After having my subframe held in place by the whiteline pineapples,I always new they weren`t really doing that much.So,a couple of days ago I decided to take them from the standard position, which is just bolting them on underneath the subframe,to putting the front ones in between the subframe and chassis.

Well,blow me !! What a transformation.No movement at all.No body roll.No clunks,squeeks or NVH.The handling is so stable I feel like it is a new car.This is the squat position (that sounds weird) and people say the front end will push too much if powering out of fast corners due to unloading the front end under power,but this is not true.I didn`t notice any squating even when deliberately trying to light the tyres out of corners,only traction and handling that is very,very predictable.The car simply rockets out of corners where as before it would simply light the tyres and go nowhere.Mind you,I can still get it to light up but I can apply alot more power now before it does.

Now I also notice my ceramic clutch doesn`t shudder so much nor the rear end feel like it`s rocking back and forward when taking off from a standing start.Also,the car is so much quiter over bumps.Now I`m going to put alloy locking disks in the back of the subframe and see what happens.Will get the traction rods from Just Jap and that should do it.

King springs.

KYB shocks.

Whiteline caster bushes.

Whiteline rear camber bushes.

Unique Auto sports diff bushes.Coming soon.

Whiteline front camber bushes. Coming soon.

Whiteline pineapples.

You have found that the Maximum Traction position actually does give more traction, how about that. :ninja:

No clunks,squeeks or NVH

If this is important to you, then I wouldn't suggest

alloy locking disks in the back of the subframe

They transmit heaps of NVH

Why would you

get the traction rods

when you already have a Whiteline rear camber kit that includes adjustable bushes for the standard traction rods?

Also keep in mind that aftermarket arms usually have spherical bearings which will increase the NVH even more.

:ninja: cheers :D

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What about the inside bushes for the traction rods,would that help?I`m on a mission now to get the rear to be at it`s best.I don`t want to get rid of the hicas just yet as it doesn`t really bother me.Driving around today I`m just rapt in the handling.My car has 205,000k`s from when I bought it with the new car smell still there at 22,000k`s.Oh,by the way I have yet to notice the front get light and the rear actually squat.It just puts the power to the ground.

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What about the inside bushes for the traction rods,would that help?I`m on a mission now to get the rear to be at it`s best.

The "inside bushes for the traction rods" are the ones you replaced with the camber kit. The "outside bushes" are in the upright (hub). Replacement arms have spherical joints which replace the "inside bushes", but they don't replace the "outside bushes", so you are stuck with the standard rubber for the outside bushes.

I don`t want to get rid of the hicas just yet as it doesn`t really bother me.

It will.

I have yet to notice the front get light and the rear actually squat.It just puts the power to the ground.

Depending on the spring rate, the squat can be quite subtle, but it's there.

:cool: cheers :)

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