Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Im at work and have been called by the mechanic and have been told that the water pump that i provided didnt come with a gasket and gasket maker would need to be used. He would need to hunt down some. is it hard to get or will it be a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177348-is-gasket-maker-easy-to-get/
Share on other sites

hey man, it's easy as :D

goto a servo and look for Selleys Windscreen sealant or Marine Sealant

either clear or black, both are fine, that is what people use for waterpump seals, it's basically a silicone based sealant, put round 2-3mm round the place where the gasket usually goes, make sure it's all even, then smush it together :D

if you can't find the Selleys stuff, try CRC Gasket maker, it's in most Repco/Supercheap stores, it's a tad more expensive than the Selleys stuff, but after you've done your waterpump you can use it on your throttle body, AAC and inlet manifold :D i just did when i cleaned mine out, made my idle a lot better than it was :D

CRC = http://www.crc.co.nz/item_prod.asp?pid=474

Selleys = http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Windscre...nt/default.aspx

I recommend buying it yourself and giving it to him, otherwise he'll try charge you a ridiculous rate, especially not knowing what to use on an automotive water gasket :S that's pretty slack for any mechanic

Selleys is round $15

CRC round $9.95, both do a good job

Yeah, Well im at work and his doing it so yeah if he tries to charge me heaps for the gasket maker im going to go off. He initially thought i needed a gasket but when i advised of gasket maket he was sweet about it.

there is also another product called "gasket goo" not 100% sure if its suitable for a waterpump application .. but this stuff never dries out , so when you remove the part you wont have to do battle with the silastic ( and having to scrape it off with a blade etc. )

If your mechanic deosn't know where to get gasket goo from, is he a real mechanic?

Anyone/everyone sells gasket goo.

autobarn/repco/autoone/supercheap auto. I've seen it in the supermarket, in kmart, service stations.

Loctite make some, as do permatex

Edited by MANWHORE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...