Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 843
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It is a learning curve again, Ben. The car behaves much differently now and getting it to do things like it used to will involve about a dozen more runs I reckon.

I've got another vid from this meeting which was the transbrake run. I thought I'd take it easy and let it go at 8psi as indicated on the eboost2 display. You can hear it coming up on the brake in the vid and when i let go of the button, you can hear the revs rise too quickly, the tyres spin and me getting off the throttle and back on it trying to get some traction. Then it hits the limiter hard on both gear changes as I'd changed the shiftlight to 8200rpm but not the rev limiter. Amateur! :thumbsup:

Lots of practice required.

Nice work - should be able to give it a good shake down this weekend :down:

So Jas says to me, he says, "We right for this weekend, mate?"

And I say, I says, "For sure, mate. What's the plan?"

And then he says, "We'll leave my place in a massive cloud of tyre smoke at 1:30pm and head to the church!"

So I says back to him, I says, "You mean your place, right near Dapto cop shop?"

And he says, "She'll be right, mate! No-one's ever there!"

So I says back to him, I says, "You mean Dapto cop shop where the whole of the Highway Patrol is based?"

And he says, well, he didn't say much else...

330hc0h.jpg

:P:D :D

  • 1 month later...
It is a learning curve again, Ben. The car behaves much differently now and getting it to do things like it used to will involve about a dozen more runs I reckon.

I've got another vid from this meeting which was the transbrake run. I thought I'd take it easy and let it go at 8psi as indicated on the eboost2 display. You can hear it coming up on the brake in the vid and when i let go of the button, you can hear the revs rise too quickly, the tyres spin and me getting off the throttle and back on it trying to get some traction. Then it hits the limiter hard on both gear changes as I'd changed the shiftlight to 8200rpm but not the rev limiter. Amateur! :P

Lots of practice required.

Here's the incar vid of the above run.

  • 2 months later...
hmm they look big, 1600's?

please show what you are doing fuel rail wise when the time comes

It will probably just be a lump of alloy bar to be honest but I'll post what i come up with in here. They're 1600's.

  • 6 months later...

Finally getting back around to tinkering with the red car and finishing the fuel system. Have booked a couple of buddies, a case of beer, some steak and a bbq for this weekend. Should have it up and running Saturday arvo.

Family stuff, Xmas, dollars and a new race car purchase stalled things somewhat.

Leigh from ETM made up a really nice surge tank setup for me and mounted the pumps etc. I'm bracing for the Speedflow bill (scary shit) but with Steve's Speed Shop and MSCN looking after me, it won't be as bad as it could have been.

2rmxna0.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...