Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a couple of threads on here on how to do it with different coilpacks. Unfortunately the igniters dont handle it so well, as these coils have a much higher current draw, and th other problem is the ignition dwell time isnt suited to the se big coils, so they dont fully charge(saturate), hence you dont really get the full benefit of the big coil. I dont think ive ever heard of a splitfire dying, all the people that ive heard of having problems with them are because they fit splitfires to fix something which wasnt the coils.

ive seen splitfire coilpacks to suit my GTR for $350. if the cheapest you have seen is for $600, then id suggest you look a bit more. easier then modding the wiring looms and changing the igniter. My 2c anyway

Over here (in Malaysia) we use Mitsubishi 6A12 (2.0 V6) coilpacks due to the lack of reliability of stock RB coils. But we use Megasquirt instead of stock ecu or Power FC... So far only 1 or 2 cars used this setup (experimental stage) and so far there's no problem...

Over here (in Malaysia) we use Mitsubishi 6A12 (2.0 V6) coilpacks due to the lack of reliability of stock RB coils. But we use Megasquirt instead of stock ecu or Power FC... So far only 1 or 2 cars used this setup (experimental stage) and so far there's no problem...
how about hyundai sonata coilpacks. the 3 packs of 2 coils if you know what i mean. like the commodore ones but for a hyundai

thanks for ideas but to keep to a tried and true type msg, also running fairly stock so adjusting recharge wont really be a major issue, so ill just use rb ignighter and VL coils, ill do a lil writeup after as well to help ppl in my situation later on

hey man,

parts needed:

VN Coilpack(the square type one, or the round, i've got the squarer one, because it looks better against my firewall)

VL set of sparkleads, shouldn't be too much or mix and match your own :fakenopic: just get the NGK or Eagle ones from supercheap

use a VN coilpack(Block of three coils with 2 spark leads on each side)

they are round $60-80 new i think? try the local holden dealer

sell your old coils for whatever yuo get for them, usually $20 each or so(here in NZ anyway, not much because they are poo)

keep the coil loom, cut the wires at the end, label them all though :) for each cylinder, then wire them up, i think it goes 1/6(first coil 2/5(second coil) 3/6(third coil)

It'll make it dead easy to change sparkies as well :rant:

I think if you want to use the original VL coilpack, you'd need some way of firing it? because it's dizzy standard isn't it? not sure if an ignitor would work in that sense, although it could do

Ah thankyou thankyou thats exactly wat i was looking for, VN ones not VL would be the go

the ignitor isnt really an issue yet

Like before ill do a writeup with photos when i do it

if the ignitor cant handle the current draw, what about relays? 6x GT40's with relays direct to the battery, would be ideal wouldnt it?

and on that note, what about adding capacitors etc?

Edited by SKiT_R31

this is a reply to the first post. vn coil pack fire both sparks together. on a vn it will be matched to one cylender that is on its power stroke and one cylender that is on its exhaust stroke to burn any unburnt fuel. it all helps with emissions. so you need to make sure yours is firing on the exhaust and power stroke of matching cylenders.

i know this has been said before but this realy is a crap way to go about fixing spark problems.

firstly you get a break down of spark by having high tensile leads. coil packs are right on the spark plug.

having the coils mounted on the firewall is going to induce more heat than the coil packs would get. nissan designed coil packs to sit where they do and they didnt expect someone to9 mod their engine 17years later and expect them to hold up to it. the coil packs are mounted at the front of a vn commo so they get cooling from the rad fan.

oh i am sure you know anyway. just get some spitfires. slide and croyden are in a bidding war at the moment at having the cheapest spitfires in aus. you could get a set for $500. that cheap. just do that.

ive been running el coil pack on my car with leads for some time now, spark jumps as far as the grand canyon, its up to you. spend the $500 for a bolt in coil pack that looks neat and can run std dwell, or bolt in a diff pack with leads and run more dwell= bigger charge and greater spark therefore better burn and more power is made, they f**kout due to the heat from being bolted to the cylinder head, i can guarantee you mounting it on the firewall would be not as hot for the coil. ive seen the el pack on rb26 t88 make well into 700bhp with no issue's std ignitor. however this was dyno time only, dont know how long it lasted this way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...