Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry to hear about it. I geuss some shit heads get satisfaction from that kinda stuff. My car had its rear quarter window smashed and the surrounding area keyed down to bear metal in feb by some c**t, if that wasn't bad enough he slashed my back tyre....i geuss when he found out that the speaker boxes he stole were empty...lol. In total to fix it all properly including the glass, painting the whole panel as it got a bit rusty, new tyre and fittment of the window it works out to be around $800.I geuss this kinda stuff happens.....not to worrie....karma will be heading for all those fu*k heads.

p.s although you probs won't find the guy, i hope you do so you can have a word with him :D

sorry to hear about what happened.. know exactly how you feel

just last saturday someone reversed into the back of my car in the bunnings car park in Maddington, as i was walking out of bunnings. he saw me from a distance running into him and he just drove off in a hurry.. spoke to people around where i was parked that saw the car hit mine, and they just said they didnt see anything and said thats what you get for driving cars like these..

it just goes to say that bogans will be bogans... and its $600 to fix...... out of my own pocket, which is still cheaper than claiming through insurance.. end rant.. hope you feel better after hearing this.. :D

It really sux to hear that so many have suffered from similar, and worse instances to what I have. I've had my car keyed once about a year ago, but this was a lot worse. Will hear from them tomorrow... hope for best.

I Seriously cant see why people do crap like this. Its not too hard to understand that other peoples things are thier stuff and people dont have the right to damage it when they feel like it. Besides which, what does it possibly achieve? The little S*%T heads that were more than likley responsible go home and think how cool they are for damaging a Really nice car? i mean, its just stupid

Best of luck with getting it fixed mate, hope it all works out alright

spoke to people around where i was parked that saw the car hit mine, and they just said they didnt see anything and said thats what you get for driving cars like these..

quote]

WTF. . . . what the hell do they mean thats what we get for driving cars like these. Its not like you did anything wrong and we all dont go out and pay $1000s of dollars just so people can back into them or key them or anything like that. And also it dosnt matter what car you have, if people hit someone elses car or wreck it they should pay no matter what car it is. If someone said thats what you get for driving a car like that, when it was just sitting in a car park to me, id feel like smacking them in the teeth. Its people like that that are the ones that dont care if they tap or dent another persons car, they probably think . . oh it wasnt that hard . . it will be ok. . . .

Sorry but it really p***es me off

i couldn't agree more with what your saying 'Daniel r32'. If someone said that to me after my car was hit i would first be absolutly amazed about how big of a dick head they were........then i would get seriously angry. People like that are Immoral disrespectful pricks.

thats when punches should get thrown around and then you say "Thats what you get for looking like that"...same incident happened to me, someone reversed into my car only a little scratch but yeah c#nt tried to drive off, lucky i was still in car park with friends, chased the car and stopped him, grabbed him out and yeah got all his details, license and all.. ended up the scratch was a buff off and got $$$ for it. still...bitch tried to run so had to teach him a lesson..

sorry to hear about your car R33-GTS, dont worry those little sh!ts will get whats coming to them. and if you find out who it is, give me a buzz..

Ok.. an update. I've managed to figure out what bay I was in. They are looking through the video footage atm and I will hear what the verdict is tomorrow morning. Hope I get the di(kheads

Daniel R32, thats what i felt like doing, but unfortunately there was quite a few of them, and i was alone :thumbsup: ... truth to be told, i wasnt totally shocked that they gave an answer like that, i do get abuse sometimes from people on the road, screaming through the window at me etc .. guess i know what some people really think of import drivers now..... but that really doesnt bother me..

things like this happen, just have to move on, i've just booked my car in to the panel beaters next Wednesday to get her all fixed up ... and R33 GTS, good luck with finding the prick that did that to your car, and hope he gets what's coming to him and sorry to hijack your thread like this..

Just spoke to the parking security guys. They found my car, but the camera angle is really bad and they can't see much at all. They said, unfortunately there is nothing I can do about it.

Oh, well. I tried. Hopefully the people that did this get whats coming to them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...