Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey s13drifter,

Yeap, my car has a completely stock motor, including stock turbos, injectors, fuel pump, intercooler etc.

I bought my car in September last year and drive it very hard. I go cruising once a week with a club that I am involved in and have atleast 2 or 3 runs on these nights......all of which involve 6000rpm dumps and then 8500rpm gear shifts.

The extra reving helps as you will then enter the next gear in the middle of it's power band. Even though over about 7850rpm my car starts to loose power, the torque of the GTR will keep it pulling to a certain extent.

I have recently upped the power on my car with a few mods and ran an 11.57 at Heathcote on Sunday.

The motor pulled 240rwkw on a the dyno that all the guys in Vic just had their cars done on and the motor is still very strong and compression is still up.

I am running 1.2 bar all day, everyday and do a good 500k's a week.

The GTR is a very strong car and can take a real beating. I am out to prove this!!

Shaun.

Originally posted by slip

There is ONLY ONE import owner with a manual who doesn't worry me, and he's rarely on here.  You lot are mad!  Revving to 4000rpm all the time during normal driving!  THEN you complain about fuel consumption... :lol: whyyyyyy.  I think its because you are all so isolated and insulated from whats going on.

Unless gearing or conditions dictate otherwise, i shift at around  2000rpm now.  Hot or cold.  I used to go up to 3000rpm sometimes if i was in a bit of a hurry, to punch up a hill or something, but now im really povo (fuel), and plus, if im not going hard, its not fun anyway, just gonna wear the engine more.

funny thing is, the one import driver i mentioned has a modified Vspec.  Cuts sick on track days though.

This is a pet peeve of mine, if you hadn't guessed.

P.S. Used to own a 20,000rpm roadbike, at 6000rpm it was still doughy as poop. :cool:

hehe slip...it's YOU who I was talking about in my first post...i remembered you asking me about that, so i wanted to see what everyone else did :)

Just as matter of interest most of you are indicating that when cold you rev to a certain rpm only to protect the engine etc. What indicating factor are you using to determine when the engine is warm if you don't have a oil temp guage?

Hirisk,

that is excellent rwkw on stock setup other than i assume exhaust and 1.2 bar boost and a rev limiter removed. That's an awesome 1/4 mile (you must have changed the clutch to get that time?). Just a recommendation when doing your 6000rpm dumps try and have more than half a tank of fuel because the tank setup on the R32GTR can starve your pump of fuel on launching. If you could do a injector duty cycle reading u would find that it would be at max however the standard ecu will just retard timing to protect but you don't want to starve the fuel pump as there is no protection barrier there.

When cold i rev to 3500rpm

cruising 5000rpm

giving it... well limiter is set at 9000rpm and its a treat to use it

Cheers

when the engine's cold: i dont drive... i sit there & wait for it to warm up. even if im running late for something... it can wait. :cool:

when the engine's up to temperature: shift point for normal driving amongst the Excels & Commondoors is about 5500-6500

when im giving it some schtick: 9000 :)

I'm with most of you guys..

IN the mornings when cold, i try to keep it of boost and under 3,000 till its warm, then normal driving i keep changes between 3,000 and 4,000...

I dont like revving it to hard in first for some reason when i give it a bit...Probably only take it to 6,000 - 6,500, then take it to 7,000 in second n third, and as much out fo fourth (dam governors!!)

Scott

Hey INASNT,

Nope, my factory computer has just had the Rev and Speed limit removed. It has a "Yellow Hat" sticker on it which is a Jap parts company. It may have been remapped by them, I am not sure. But even if it has been remapped, it still runs at very similar mixtures than most stock GTR's that I have seen on the dyno. I am sure that it is just the Rev and Speed limit that is removed.

I don't have a fuel pressure reg either, all stock items. My injectors are right on their limit though and I am sure the turbos would be too.

Hey STUGTR,

Yeah, I have a Exeddy Diken Three Puck Single plate with heavy duty pressure plate. Awesome clutch.....has not let me down yet!!

You can see my mods here......

http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...=&threadid=1335

Thanks,

Shaun.

thanks for the info HIRISK i thought i was givin my motor a hidin goin to 8000rpm. What do you plan to do next to your car?? Mine has a single t51 but with a different front compressor housing slightly larger than the old t51 housing which mine is. I must say im not the biggest fan of it mainly due to the lag and the fact i can only run it at about 16psi when it should really be running bout 30psi but my stock internalls i dont think they have it in them for 30psi thats why i believe it is so laggy. Whats the price on that clutch mine is a single plate but is really modified i dont like it much as it is way too heavy heavier in fact than a friend who has a tripple plate:uh-huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...