Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rich spikes, like excessive revs or something? please explain....

Na like when the bov vents, excess un burn't fuel will be dumped into the exhaust causing a backfire type sound. Not overly loud - also doesn't happen all the time either, mine doesn't really do it much at all, the turbosmart ones are good because you can tighten them up to increase the spring rate - hardening the piston in the bov to stop your car from stalling. If the bov is too loose i.e venting too much and or under idle it will cause you car to stall. If you are interested in the sound etc of a blow off valve then a pod filter will give you a simular sound just using the stock bov.

Basically set up right and you shouldn't have too many issues, but it may just cause your car to have those 'rich' as in rich fuel mixtures when the bov vents. nothing really to worry about. Try your bov and try adjusting the spring rate by turning the head of it, it should be fine, but if its causing you issues just wak the stock one back on and use a pod filter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178337-turbosmart-bov/#findComment-3254293
Share on other sites

i have a hks pod filter at the moment... might have been better if i stated that i also have 550cc injectors, bigger turbo, fmic, walbro fuel pump, dump pipe into stainless 3 inch, microtech ecu ect.

it has an apexi (twin chamber) bov on the crossover piping at the moment but its not in use, it has the hoses of it but making the flutter sound it must be actulator, is that what is happening by the sound of things???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178337-turbosmart-bov/#findComment-3254306
Share on other sites

Sounds like your current bov is not working at all. If it were a working plambback you would get no flutter ans just a kinda cough out the pod filter. If your apexi was a workgin atmo you should get the flutter under lighter load conditions but then its venting sound at higher load. Does your current bov make any noise?

If it doesn't it may just be not a strong enough vacuum line going to the top of it. Sometimes if the vac line going to the bov has a tee piece in it and a hose going somewhere else as well, then it doesn't function properly becuase it fails to reconginise the change in manifold pressure.

Edited by R33silverS2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178337-turbosmart-bov/#findComment-3254324
Share on other sites

no, no sound comes out of the blow off valve at all, and yes it has a t piece, it should be to much of a change in pressure as the line has been kinked with a cable tie around it, blocking the boost controller, as my boost controller has been disabled. would it be an idea to totally remove t peice and hose to my boost controller?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178337-turbosmart-bov/#findComment-3254403
Share on other sites

no, no sound comes out of the blow off valve at all, and yes it has a t piece, it should be to much of a change in pressure as the line has been kinked with a cable tie around it, blocking the boost controller, as my boost controller has been disabled. would it be an idea to totally remove t peice and hose to my boost controller?

Not totally sure how your setup is but, if the bov you currently have is in the stock position (just before the throttle body on the cross over pipe) It should have a single vac line running from the top of the bov and onto a the manifold (after the throttle body). Why is there a tee in the hose connecting to the top of the bov and where is it running to? I tee'd into it once before and the bov stopped working. So it needs to be a single line from the bov to the maniforld.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178337-turbosmart-bov/#findComment-3254495
Share on other sites

the tee piece near your air box etc won't have anything to do with the operation of the bov. Problem is i cant really see from that pic of the bov, where one of the red vac lines runs too.. the one furthest up the top looks like its running under the bov or is it connected to it as well? Where is that hose connected or does the bov have two hoses coming off it? A pic from the top rather than the side would be easier to see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178337-turbosmart-bov/#findComment-3254753
Share on other sites

that looks like it should work. i'd say the piston is probably siezed in it.

oh ok, then maybe the bov is stuffed ir no good, because looking at the bov there is no tension screw on the top... arent the apexi twin chamber bov supposed to have the tension screw? if it is seized up is it possible to fix it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178337-turbosmart-bov/#findComment-3255071
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...