Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what you need to get into your head is that the requirements for a drift car and a drag car are completely different from a power delivery and chassis set-up point of view

trying to build a 'hybrid' to do both jobs will result in a car that is compromised for both diciplines

to just 'turn the boost down' at the drift track won't help with regard to response- what you need for drift would be to use a turbo that will be able to make around 500hp with the smallest exhaust turbine size possible (somewhere around the .6 A/R range)

you'll notice in your video that even at freeway speeds, and changing at redline, the 3L R34 still had a brief pause after gear changes- this wouldn't be great on the drift track

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

okay i think i'll just have the car as a drag car and for burnout comps

i got a rb25de non vct head.....but i'm selling it on ebay now

i could have built another motor rb30det for drift

but whats the most rwkw from the hks t04z?

if i were u i woiuld keep the s13 an sr20 put an s15 turbo on it get about 200rwkw and drift that.

and with all the money u reckon ur gonna spend on this rb26/30 conversion get a gtr 32 and build that into ur street drag car.

and do heaps of research i reckon'

btw how old are u?????

u sound like my 9yo cousin the way u speak.

22 2day

Happy Birthday!

You say you wanna drift in a 400rwkw car, do you know how to drift by any chance or are you planning on practicing in this car? Because if you're learning in this car chances are you're gonna....... BAM!! $30k+ GONE!! sort of...

yeah thanks

i was trying to learn in the s13 silvia but it has a open wheel diff and ca18de has no power

will be getting a 2 way nismo diff and 5 stud conversion soon

any one watch that youtube lean to drift by the drift king... some one translates it to english

you know d guy he wears gloves cozz hes 2 good

i will learn b4 d motor is in coz i dun wanna wreck nuthin

im getting my tein super drift coilovers this week

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...