Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Crank Pulley

kghl

By kghl,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

kghl Enthusiast

kghl

Posted
  • Author
Posted
taking everything off to get to it...

you'll need a crank puller kit ($30-$50)

have to remove the radiator (drain the coolant first), and remove all belts

not too hard but time consuming. be careful that you dont screw up your timing :D

I have removed everyting. I thought its simply use 27mm socket but that just turn the crank. Thanks. I will give it a go buying a puller kit tomorrow.

InterCooL Rising Star

InterCooL

Posted
Posted

o yeah.. um to get that crank nut off there is a variety of tricks that people use...

now i'm not reccomending or taking any responsibility, but some people just get someone to jam on the brakes while u take off the nut. others put a big breaker bar on it and move the handle so its touching the ground (while on the nut), -then you blip the starter. or you can use an impact socket device thing. or a rattle gun :)

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
o yeah.. um to get that crank nut off there is a variety of tricks that people use...

now i'm not reccomending or taking any responsibility, but some people just get someone to jam on the brakes while u take off the nut. others put a big breaker bar on it and move the handle so its touching the ground (while on the nut), -then you blip the starter. or you can use an impact socket device thing. or a rattle gun :)

you need to use your brain for this one, make sure the breaker bar is levering on the correct side of the motor (resting on the ground on the exhaust side of the harmonic balancer). i heard of an apprentice using the wrong side as a lever. the breaker bar swing right around the motor and took out the power steering pump as well as bent the breaker. at least the bolt came loose.

skybarge Community Regular

skybarge

Posted
Posted

hahahaha that's hilarious, i heard the same thing except someone got hit in the face with it, got a fat lip and broke a tooth, could've been worse though :)

I use the passenger side chassis rail with my breaker, but that's only because mine is on axle stands and I didn't want it moving, only took round 2-3 small cranks, i think it was loose by the first, but the other two helped undo the bolts

then get a steering wheel puller or hamonic balancer puller from supercheap, they are round $20

don't use the pullers with two to three arms that lock round the pulley rings, they usually end up breaking the pulley, the supercheap one screws into the two holes on the inside of the balancer, then it has a large bolt which goes through the middle and pushes the pulley out while undoing the crank bolt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...