Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has some aftermarket (no idea what brand) atmo venting, problem causing blow off.

Apart from the usual stall issues one gets with such a thing (massive pain in the ass) I have recently had a SAFC installed along with upped boost. And pretty much from day 1 of the upgrade ive been getting weird ass issues.

Like sometimes it seems as if the BOV almost gets stuck open, if im just driving around on partial throttle I will notice a massive cut in power yet the pod sounds like its sucking in alot of air (or the bov is venting alot), a quick prod of the throttle sees the noise dissapear and my power instantly return.

The other issues is when under full throttle, my mid range is often interupted by a massive lack of power and a rapid popping noise form the exhaust, then when higher revs are reached the popping stops and its back on full power.

My thoughts were that the BOV isn't holding the boost for whatever reason, and the popping was fuel being dumped unburnt into the zorst than igniting, kind of like when you lift off and get a pop with an atmo BOV.

Oh and my clutch slips horribly in 4th and 5th gear under 80%+ throttle but thats to be expected with stock clutch and over 200rwkw (or so im told)

Anyway do people agree with my conclusion that the BOV is not handling the boost? Id turn down the boost but its been tuned to 11psi and its one of those 'wind it and test' bleed valve type controllers that I would prefer to leave alone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178894-bov-too-crap-for-boost/
Share on other sites

Why dont you just put a plumbed BOV back on there? (read the stock or GTR one)

That would fix the stalling issue, and potentially if your BOV isnt holding the boost... also that aswell.

For $70 (stock BOV) - $200 (GTR BOV) at the most, its a pretty basic and cheap fix. :)

Why dont you just put a plumbed BOV back on there? (read the stock or GTR one)

That would fix the stalling issue, and potentially if your BOV isnt holding the boost... also that aswell.

For $70 (stock BOV) - $200 (GTR BOV) at the most, its a pretty basic and cheap fix. >_<

if u still want the pleasure of having an atmo bov. y dont u invest in a ssq bov. they operate with a push pull piston system. the advertisement states that it is almost impossible for them to 'leak'.

i personally have one on my r33, and have never had any stalling issues or other crap that people have stereoptyed with a vta bov.

good luck :):whistling:

is it a new safc or safc 2?

the newer safc's have a feature that stops it from stalling when changing gears or slowing down etc, but really atmo bov's are just for attention, you can get the same thing (if not better) in a plumback.

or you can just mod your stock bov to stop leaking, theres a thread on here that shows you step by step what to do and it works...

if your not running big boost, you dont need another bov.

rip it off and put your stock one back on, economy will come back and it'll be headf*k free

the popping you are getting is probably due to your spark plugs and coils not being able to cope with the extra boost. how old are your spark plugs? what heat range and gap are they? the stalling caused by an atmo bov is made worse when your spark plugs are worn. i had the stalling issue on my stock bov cause my spark plugs were shot. try a new set of plugs and that should help with the popping up high in the revs, and may help a bit with the stalling.

i'd say your bov is probably also leaking. it may need the spring tension wound up a bit to stop it opening when driving at low load where it may be still under vacuum.

Thanks for that guys.

I do plan to go back to the stock BOV, im trying to source one. I never wanted the atmo one, you get over the psssh pretty damn quick. The spark plugs making the issue worse might help to explain why the car didn't do it as bad when I first got it. With any luck the stock BOV, some new sparkies and a new clutch should have my car running sweet again. I haven't changed or even looked at the spark plugs since I bought the car over a year ago so it could be an issue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...