Jump to content
SAU Community

Rear Struts Q.

FelixTRX

By FelixTRX,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

FelixTRX Community Regular

FelixTRX

Posted
Posted

Hey all, I've just about purchased a 97 model Stag and the pre-purchase inspection picked up buggered rear struts.

Car yard has said they are going to put some R33 M-Spec struts in, with the standard springs.

Will this be sufficient, and will it work? I need to know before we pick the wagon up!

Cheers, Greg.

P.S. I tried to filter through the suspension sticky but it was taking waaaaaaaay too long!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178899-rear-struts-q/
Share on other sites
Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted

To answer your question in order.... No and Yes :)

I think it was pointed out a few times in the Suspension sticky. I'm not an expert on Suspension so if you want more info ask SydneyKid (topic starter for the suspension sticky). Although the R33 gear will fit (I think anyway) there are many differences in the valving and spring rates etc between skyline and stagea. Weight being the main problem, Stagea's weigh more than an R33 and the R33 struts would be designed to work with a different spring rate than the Stagea's stock springs. The struts from the R33 will be insufficent to cope with the extra weight and different spring rates for the Stagea. In short sure they may fit but I wouldn't put anything in the back and even then its not going to be any good. But I just picked up this info from what I read in the Sticky a while back so like I said if you want to know more talk to SK.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178899-rear-struts-q/#findComment-3261621
Share on other sites
Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted

"Ours came in at 1,658kgs with no fuel in the tank, with a full tank, some stuff in the back and 2 passengers it went over 1,900 kgs.

Sorry, maybe I need to be a bit more frank. Sure the R33 GTST stuff will bolt in, but the spring and damper rates will be wrong, very wrong. There is no way I would be using a twin chamber, small piston Japanese shock on a Stagea Especially not together with a reduced travel, high rate spring designed for a car with 30% less weight. The combination of chassis weight, plus potential passenger and luggage capacity make a Stagea very different from an R33 GTST, which is after all a 2 door coupe with appropriate passenger and luggage usage patterns.

My 20 cents worth:cheers:"

Taken from the #9th post in the Suspension Sticky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178899-rear-struts-q/#findComment-3261629
Share on other sites
GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
ooops, i just remembered that the RS4S rear struts have forked bottoms so they won't fit. other S2 ones should be fine.

I was gonna mention that, but figured you'd lock onto it sooner or later...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178899-rear-struts-q/#findComment-3263982
Share on other sites
FelixTRX Community Regular

FelixTRX

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ooops, i just remembered that the RS4S rear struts have forked bottoms so they won't fit. other S2 ones should be fine.

So your particular S2 struts won't fit, but other S2 RS4 rear struts will?

Sorry but I'm new to suspension stuff like this. I'm used to H190's in Bluebirds and BW's in R31's!! :(

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178899-rear-struts-q/#findComment-3265232
Share on other sites
GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
So your particular S2 struts won't fit, but other S2 RS4 rear struts will?

Sorry but I'm new to suspension stuff like this. I'm used to H190's in Bluebirds and BW's in R31's!! :(

Cheers, Greg.

That's pretty much right, Greg. Woverine's car is a factory s2 manual, so it has a slightly different rear suspension set-up. It's (if I remember correctly) basically R33 GT-R gear, with a factory LSD, stronger driveshafts, and fork-type ends on the bottom of the shocks, instead of the loop-type ends (for want of better words - I can't think of the proper term at the moment) like all the s1's and the s2 auto versions.

I believe the 260RS versions (both s1 and s2) had the fork-type rear shocks too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178899-rear-struts-q/#findComment-3265413
Share on other sites
FelixTRX Community Regular

FelixTRX

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you need ones with eyelets.

if you can afford them now, buy the Bilsteins from Sydneykids group buy.

do it once, do it right if you can.

I would but caryard is paying for them and they will only pay for good quality 2nd hand items, as they say new ones cannot be brought.

How much are these Bilsteins then? May be able to pay the difference. Then again, put a price on good quality 2nd hand items!

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178899-rear-struts-q/#findComment-3265815
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...