Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is a pic of my new front bar.

was wondering if i should keep the square holes or fill them in.

(the ones in the middle above the air dam next to the number plate position)

whats your opinon? :(

post-38345-1186040837_thumb.jpg

Edited by petrolfix
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179149-s2-260rs-front-bar/
Share on other sites

Keep them in there I say.

Where did you get it from? Import it yourself or buy it locally? Or did it come on your car?

bought it second hand from someone on here that happened to have it lying around brand new unfitted in primer

they are N1 vents, i'm not a fan of them however, they look out of place. (my old GTR front bar had them too)

i am tending to go with mitchy they look kinda out of place on a wagon though it makes it look more agressive. i am tempted to flip a coin.

and everyone else seams to want to leave them for the simple fact of airflow

It's a family wagon not a race car? not to concerned a bout air flow as that huge air dam below kinda let more than ample in and the holes will be blocked by bar rio so cery limited air is going to pass through them.

so wich "LOOKS" better >_<

looks better without. ;)

and yeah, you'd have the cut the support bar (cut it MORE if you have a FMIC) for them to actually be useful.

that large opening in the front will give more than ample air flow, my 33 gts-t with a similar sized opening never got over 1/3 of the temp guage, regardless of how it was driven. :nyaanyaa:

I agree with Mitch too, I never really liked them on GT-Rs, so I wouldn't subject my Stagea to them if I had a 260RS front bar. I think they look like an afterthought.

But this is pretty much a matter of personal opinion and taste.

have a look at andy's old car, cause his car looked friggen porn and he had that front bar but i just cant remember whether he had them in or not.

yep had a look at andy's old car. Don't now about you, but i can't quite tell? :)

post-38345-1186214696_thumb.jpg

this will be the new front bar for my new EGA41T (andy's old one)

this is what it looked like before. this time around it will have a dolfin grille though.

will be happy when it's back on the road.

and before you all ask. cut a long story short. Don't get destacted by your girlfriend whilst driving in heavy traffic

post-38345-1186214855_thumb.jpg

Looks like it went to a good home hey Andy!

(sorry Matthew, no malice intended)

lol, what can you do. i just hope he gets it back to its former glory.

plus i want to know what time it does down the quarter, as i never had the chance to get it on the strip.

anyways, i have a new car now, its called a toyota hiace, roof racks, shelves and racking, 3 ladders, and a bazooka, and best of all free fuel, gotta love the work van, its sexy as :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...