Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone.

I had another thread in the suspension area about my car being defected for being too low. Well i went through regency yesterday and they didnt even check the eyebrow height measurement that i got defected for. lol.. just straight over the pits. Anyway the guy has written on my form

Re-instate eyelevel rear brake light

Re- instate 5 degree side indicators

Fix broken manifold stud

fix exhaust leak after cat converter.

Brake light is fair enough i think because i forgot that the spoiler was taken off when the car ws sprayed etc, easily fixed but the guy rekns that my car should have indicators in the front guards that must be visible from 5degrees at rear of car. My car is a r32 92 11th month. It doesnt even look like indicators were in there in the 1st place. No wiring for them etc. Just wanted to check if anyone knows if my car being the last of the 32's has to have these indicators installed ? My old 89 and my wifes 90 model havnt got them.

Oh and i asked the guy why has this been picked up now and not the other 4 times all up with the last owner the car has been through regency, and he said i have no idea.. lol.

So yeah anyone know if he's talking crap or not ?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179238-failed-1st-check-at-regecny/
Share on other sites

hey i have a rear brake light that goes in the rear window ADR standards u can borrow!!

and i have a 93 r32 and i have side indicators!!

mine werent amber enough when i got defected lol

drop us a pm if u wanna borrow the light!

cheers

thanks for the offer dude. Iv got my old trx pinny rear brake light here im going to put in, it also sits in the rear window..

ok if your 93 has them then its a good indication that the inspector was correct and my car did have them..

cheers for your quick reply!

nah i believe that there stock front panels. Im thinking that if my car did have them b4 that they were removed and the holes welded over when the last owner had the car sprayed from black to how green

my brother got stick on indicators that just require a small hole to be drilled for the wire, theyr clear now amber though so dont know if theyll like that..

rad33... lol... defected for indicators not being amber enough... lol

worn globes... must be all the burnouts you were chucking with them right ? bit like how my tune up sticker could of caused a serious crash. lol

nah cars a gts t.. my old 89 wasa gts, didnt have them... my wifes isa 1990 4dr gts t and hasnt got them either

fyi, your car doesnt have indicators cos the compliancer didnt feel they were necessary. if you look at your normal front indicators, i believe r32s have a slight bulge or a lump to them. this can function as a side indicator by being visible from behind/5degrees. this was as designed by nissan and its really up to the inspector/compliancer to decide. im guessing if you look at two cars from different workshops they may even have different shaped lights cos the mechanics may have a differnt source for them.

anyway y not check to see if they comply your self. it shouldn't be too hard for you to stand next to your car and have a look.

<br />Hey everyone.<br /><br /> I had another thread in the suspension area about my car being defected for being too low. Well i went through regency yesterday and they didnt even check the eyebrow height measurement that i got defected for. lol.. just straight over the pits. Anyway the guy has written on my form<br /><br />Re-instate eyelevel rear brake light<br />Re- instate 5 degree side indicators<br />Fix broken manifold stud<br />fix exhaust leak after cat converter.<br /><br />Brake light is fair enough i think because i forgot that the spoiler was taken off when the car ws sprayed etc, easily fixed but the guy rekns that my car should have indicators in the front guards that must be visible from 5degrees at rear of car. My car is a r32 92 11th month. It doesnt even look like indicators were in there in the 1st place. No wiring for them etc. Just wanted to check if anyone knows if my car being the last of the 32's has to have these indicators installed ? My old 89 and my wifes 90 model havnt got them. <br /><br />Oh and i asked the guy why has this been picked up now and not the other 4 times all up with the last owner the car has been through regency, and he said i have no idea.. lol.<br /><br />So yeah anyone know if he's talking crap or not ? <br /><br />Cheers<br />
<br /><br /><br />

i have a 32 4dr that passed on thurs and i never had to install side indicators but they did look for them. i told the guy that they are in the front indicators. they have a seperate section and even have their own globe and he over looked it after that. mines an 89 tho.height was my biggest prob. had to hire suspension.

cheers 4 all the replies fellas.

I actually discussed the whole indicator thing with the regency inspector and said to him that in my eyes the buldge on the front indicator is visibl from 5 degrees however he said theres no 2 ways about it i need to install them. How do i argue with regency though, its stupid, they set down the rules and they dont even listen when you try to explain i find.

Cruizen33 : eyebrow height is from bottom lip of guard to centre of the wheel.. should be 360mm minimum on an r32, even though all the stock ones iv measured so far fall around the same as mine 357ish which is one of the things i was defected for in the 1st place.. In my case, regency didnt even check this, so in other words they didnt even bother checking what the cops originally defected me for. pfft,

as far as ive seen through regency 89-mid 90 32's dont have to have side indicators but anything after that must have them. The wernt direct from the factory so the place where the car was complienced should put them on.

Do you have aftermarket front quarter panels?? Seems strange that it doesn't have them as it would have needed them to comply when imported!
My 89 R32 has no side indicators, but it's been in the country for a fair while.
as far as ive seen through regency 89-mid 90 32's dont have to have side indicators but anything after that must have them. The wernt direct from the factory so the place where the car was complienced should put them on.

hmmm interesting.. The compliance plate says Priority Porsch Imports.. Meh, i think im going to have to just bite the bullet and install the bastards..3rd week now of not being able to drive my car is getting very frustrating not to mention all the hardship it causes without my car. I just want it back on the road.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...