Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wat power you aiming at long term? ive answered this many a time. if u want less than 250-300rwkw you want see any difference between the split or all in 1. if ur aiming more than that then the all in 1 will be better.

wat power you aiming at long term? ive answered this many a time. if u want less than 250-300rwkw you want see any difference between the split or all in 1. if ur aiming more than that then the all in 1 will be better.

thanks man,

i really appreciate your help, im not looking for any more than 250kw.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys i need your advice

i'm in the processing of upgrading my stock rb25 turbo for a highflowed rb25. in terms of the dump pipe... i just want to know will there be any adverse affects if i stick with a 3inch bellmouth dump front pipe or should i go the 3inch split dump front???

any help would be much appreciated!

cheers in advance

hey guys i need your advice

i'm in the processing of upgrading my stock rb25 turbo for a highflowed rb25. in terms of the dump pipe... i just want to know will there be any adverse affects if i stick with a 3inch bellmouth dump front pipe or should i go the 3inch split dump front???

any help would be much appreciated!

cheers in advance

i personally love hks's split pipe.....not sure about effects

hey guys i need your advice

i'm in the processing of upgrading my stock rb25 turbo for a highflowed rb25. in terms of the dump pipe... i just want to know will there be any adverse affects if i stick with a 3inch bellmouth dump front pipe or should i go the 3inch split dump front???

any help would be much appreciated!

cheers in advance

stick with the bell mouth, your not gonna be running an external gate so no need to change dumps. the bell mouth 1 is very good for up to 300rwkw same as the split. but over 300 i would use a bell mouth anyway.

only adverse affects if u switch between bell to split, if the split pipe isnt a good quality 1 or not fitted properly, then you may find the wastegate flap to foul the dump pipe and you'll get big boost spikes cos the gate isnt opening the whole way.

wat power you aiming at long term? ive answered this many a time. if u want less than 250-300rwkw you want see any difference between the split or all in 1. if ur aiming more than that then the all in 1 will be better.

U serious, I dont know about ur car but when I changed over to a split dump pipe I noticed a HUGE diff. I'd go the BOS importing SS one. Prob one of the best mods u'll ever do

U serious, I dont know about ur car but when I changed over to a split dump pipe I noticed a HUGE diff. I'd go the BOS importing SS one. Prob one of the best mods u'll ever do

have to agree with u there

the bos importing split dump is an awesome mod if ur only looking for abit more than stock power levels

i found that after installing the bos split dump the car just wants to go and looks good too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...