Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people

Cant find out what globe type this is?

See the pic

Some people say its h3, h3c, h1, h1 with a h4 connector.. Ive had mix answers.

My car is a 1992 R32 (HCR32) Type-M RB20DET 5spd manual. The headlights are the new projector shape ones, not the old n1 (89) ones.

Could someone please clarify this once and for all, as im trying to purchase HID kit and have no clue which path to go down.

52n3kg7.jpg

68kmjo6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179309-what-globe-type-is-this/
Share on other sites

the base of the globe? where the 3 pins are at the bottom? cause there is nothing there. i don't see any print at all anywhere.

does the actual globe come off the adapter part? because I have to replace this part, my light doesn't work the filament is loose inside and busted, ..

so when you buy it do you buy the actual whole piece I posted the picture of? or do you just buy the globe to suit it and replace it (if it comes apart?)

well I need to replace this globe tomorrow. and my H1 HID kit arrives next week

so would there need to be any modification to the H1 HID kit or will it be pretty straight forward to install, plug n play?...

sounds like there could be some difficulties as you said 'h1 bulb in a holder'.?

I have to agree with MANWHORE. I've purchased a set of hids and the visibility is much better than what my original headlights were doing, but there is a lot of glare compared to what retrofits can do. If your set is already on its way, I just hope you chose 4300k globes to come with it. I found that 6000k was too blue and ricey. Only my opinion.

I wouldn't say they're a complete waste of money though. The kit did what it was supposed to do (give a better light output), but it's not good for on coming drivers.

Up to you mate.

Thanks for the info

I am still considering whether to get 4300K or 6000K, but 4300K may be the way to go

At the moment my halogen stock bulbs are so crap that oncoming cars to me, I can barely see the road.. it feels like my lights arn't even on half the time.

Would the H1 HID kit fit, or would it need some sort of modifications?

I know what you mean mate. I remember driving my car with the standard lights and it was shocking. Couldn't see a thing. Driving at night while it's raining was the worst.

The kit I had was pretty much plug and play.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi people, i also own a R32 Gtst and was looking into getting a hid kit. just wondering that one of you guys quoted that the 6000k was blurry but wouldnt the 4300k be to bright for oncoming car? also would the 4300k look just white? cause i want the blue tinge so what kit should i get?

Go for a custom HID fit, Ronin here has done one

I fully agree with everythin MANWHORE says

I'm doing one at the moment, using twin FX45 bi-xenons, I'm just trying to work out fitment issues and a shroud

Then trying to make a clear headlight cover out of perspex, because my current one is the glass crapper with the lines through it

Do a search on "HID conversion" on the search button you'll find it.

If you do go for the HID kit, you'll notice how crap it is, especially in the factory nissan projector lense, it'll focus the light all in one spot and scatter the rest

Hi people, i also own a R32 Gtst and was looking into getting a hid kit. just wondering that one of you guys quoted that the 6000k was blurry but wouldnt the 4300k be to bright for oncoming car? also would the 4300k look just white? cause i want the blue tinge so what kit should i get?

All the hid kits are the same. They'll all give 'blurry' light. The 6000K globes are more of a blue light and the 4300K is supposed to be the colour of sun light. If I were to get an hid kit again, I would go for the 4300k. I wanted a blue to my light, but I found 6000K too much.

If I were to upgrade to better lights in the future, I would definately go retrofitting. I kind of regret buying my hid kit. It's an improvement, but.... it's up to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...