Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry to see what the wankers did, and thanks for the warning -

with all the revenue they pull from import owners for speeding, you think the police would feel obliged to put more time into the investigation of crimes against the cars - after all its in their interest to keep us out there on the roads :P

But seriously, its a crying shame that vigilantes arent tollerated, would make life more satisfying to be able to punch living f#$k out of pricks like that.

I take it from the pics that for a theif to open the door unlawfully, they have to remove the door handle?

if you had the skills, or knew someone who does, a thought would be to install a grounding (push type) switch (the same kind as your door switch that turns your interior light on when you open your door) behind the door handle, so that if the handle was to OPEN, so to speak, as in come away from the car say 5mm... the alarm would go off, as you can connect the switch to the door switches, which are connected to your alarm.

if your skyline is an everyday car, this could be a wise modification to your alarm system. you could set it so the handle only has to move a fraction before the alarm goes off, making the theif boogy out of there, minimizing the damage to your door.

come on guys... you know this is a good idea :P

just an update...

about $400 to repair it, that includes: weld up damage and paint entire door, rubber seal around handle, clean up door handle and replace lock (i probably wont get the lock replaced though - just plug it up - dont need 2 locks... one less lock for them to butcher with a screw driver)

I like the idea of the alarm switch on the door handle. So u could put it in series with the door switch/interior light switch??

Also, in the pic u can see an activation lever through the hole... this is from the door handle... there is another lever that should have been attached to the back of the lock mechanism... the twits knocked the lever off the lock while they were butchering the door... so there was no way they could have gotten in unless they made an even bigger hole right to the actual catch mechanism of the door... I am not planning on putting this lever back on either... i removed it on my previous car as well.

collegue at work used to live at modbury and was telling me of all the thefts she could see from her flat and then watch the cops rock up later when she called. its not a good place to park your car (esp near the hospital)

if you have central locking installed (or plan to cos its only $40 for a kit) then you wont need the door lock to be replaced. also using remote boot release, you can disconnect your boot latches from the key/inside release to protect things like amps

i hate car theives... they need to be caught and taught a "lesson".

over the years ive had my car(s) broken into three times.

I have found alarms dont even do much... they usually just want to nick stuff from inside the car and then bugger off.

Tip 1

Never leave ANYTHING visible in the car.

Tip 2

If they are looking for an actualy car to steal, the club lock is the best deterrent, as well as an immobiliser obviously.

Why can't we be like south africa where they have shock systems or flame throwers hooked up to the car alarm system.

****ing theives... DIE!

Guest Miss_Nismo
  Quote
Originally posted by EnricoPalazzo

Yeh i have an alarm and still use th Club lock. Plus on the other side, it doubles as a weapon if someone harrasses u.

Yes I was let of with a warning from a pigger once, using the steering wheel lock as a weapon is illegal apparently.

  • 2 weeks later...

dam theives, I sympathise for you, as i had my car broken into a few weeks ago at Brighton railway station, lost the entire soundsystem, luckily the theif was caught by police with a little help from a witness, theif now owes me $900 :D

Think its a good idea if we set up some cars around for theives then kick the S**T outta them wen they go near it. It may start to deter them a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...