Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Hydralic Issue - Help! Have Tried Everything

Simon-S14
 Share

Recommended Posts

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

Ive got this clutch hydralic issue that i thought i solved... Basically i can bleed the clutch system, then after a while of driving (say an hour or so) the engagement point gets higher and then with your foot off the peddle there is still pressure in the system and applying on the clutch fork causing the clutch to slip under hard accel

Cracking the bleed nipple on the slave/master (i have ditched the damper in the middle) releases this pressure and all is good for another hour or so...

Now heres the thing, i have rebuilt both the master and the slave, and adjusted the pushrod on the master, but with no solution. The only thing that made a real difference was using an air blower to blast all the lines out and chucking the damper in the bin... then the clutch was fine for a day or so then it was back to acting up.

Slave cyln looks to be perfect, as does the master, so really. im stumped and sick of the damn issue!

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You're sure you have the pushrod adjusted correctly at the pedal. Because it sounds like the master is gradually building pressure because it can't release properly. Pretty certain there should be a slight amount of slop in the pushrod when the pedal is fully released.

kjb_r33 Experienced

kjb_r33

Posted
Posted
thats exactally whats happening, master is building pressure, however the pushrod has plenty of slop in it after bleeding.... but it doesnt stay that way!

hair pulling stuff

Compensating port is blocked, fluid heats up and cant return to reservior, therefore it expands and disengages clutch. If you have freeplay at adjustable rod you need to make sure the port isnt blocked.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Compensating port is blocked, fluid heats up and cant return to reservior, therefore it expands and disengages clutch. If you have freeplay at adjustable rod you need to make sure the port isnt blocked.

where about is this port located?

kjb_r33 Experienced

kjb_r33

Posted
Posted
where about is this port located?

If your looking into the master cylinder, it the small hole closest to the main bore opening. If its out of adjustment the seal will cover the port, stopping the warming fluid from re-entering the reservoir.

kjb_r33 Experienced

kjb_r33

Posted
Posted
so basically i need to strip it down and clean it all out...

Yep, but you also need to make sure you havent fitted a spacer or washer in the wrong spot. In the relaxed position the seal needs to be slightly back from the compensating port.

dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

why not just buy a new master? very cheap and save all this hassle.... rebuilding is fine but for all the hassels youve had id just f**k it off and get a brand spanka. you could possibly have the seals in the wroung way also... primary/ secoendry seals backwards etc.

Jax Collaborator

Jax

Posted
Posted
Compensating port is blocked, fluid heats up and cant return to reservior, therefore it expands and disengages clutch. If you have freeplay at adjustable rod you need to make sure the port isnt blocked.

This is the right answer, you don't need new! Find out, in your assembly of the master, why the seal is covering the hole so the fluid can't return to the reservoir.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I have been through a couple of aftermarket clutch masters and 1 slave cyls.

$75 for the master and $38 for the slave.

The aftermarket master behind a 1+tonne clutch doesn't last too long I average ~40,000km's before they begin to leak. :S

All clutch brake Edwardstown.

I'll go a genuine master and nismo slave (reduced pedal effort) next time roud as I'm sick of removing and installing.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have been through a couple of aftermarket clutch masters and 1 slave cyls.

$75 for the master and $38 for the slave.

The aftermarket master behind a 1+tonne clutch doesn't last too long I average ~40,000km's before they begin to leak. :S

All clutch brake Edwardstown.

I'll go a genuine master and nismo slave (reduced pedal effort) next time roud as I'm sick of removing and installing.

your telling me.. its a fair prick of a job to remove it all, ive done it about 3-4 times now (once cause my clutch peddle box broke)

i'll pull it out and strip the master down again. no idea where this compensating port is but i'll try and figure it out :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Hi from Canada, Both of my calipers are starting to fail. My car is a 2005 M35 Stagea ARX and I can't seem to find any parts or any cross reference caliper that would fit my car. Is there a company or a similar caliper that would fit and I could replace the OEM one. Or if anyone knows where I can find a new OEM. Any help is very appreciated. Let me know!
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
×
×
  • Create New...