Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

Just I'll share this with everyone... of late, I've noticed my engine/oil temperature guage hits the higher end when the engine isn't fully warmed up yet... however, after the engine has in fact warmed up; the engine/oil temperature goes down to mid-range again as normal - can someone please tell me if this is normal or is something wrong... I checked my coolant and it's full no leakage etc.

Cheers,

Hey fellas,

Just I'll share this with everyone... of late, I've noticed my engine/oil temperature guage hits the higher end when the engine isn't fully warmed up yet... however, after the engine has in fact warmed up; the engine/oil temperature goes down to mid-range again as normal - can someone please tell me if this is normal or is something wrong... I checked my coolant and it's full no leakage etc.

Cheers,

To put simply oil is thicker when its cold, and as it warms up it becomes thinner. Thinner fluid = less resistence = less pressure.

It is completely normal and everycar will do it.

Abit off topic but, why did you check your coolant if you were worried about oil pressure???

Hey fellas, thanks for your replies... glad to hear it's normal.

R34GTFOUR - your question is valid; I checked my coolant thinking that there's something wrong with the engine hence making it overheat and therefore perhaps increasing the pressure of the oil etc - worth a check, I guess.

That's good to know... many thanks everyone.

Regards,

Hey fellas,

Just I'll share this with everyone... of late, I've noticed my engine/oil temperature guage hits the higher end when the engine isn't fully warmed up yet... however, after the engine has in fact warmed up; the engine/oil temperature goes down to mid-range again as normal - can someone please tell me if this is normal or is something wrong... I checked my coolant and it's full no leakage etc.

Cheers,

If the oil is cold how can it be hot???? Unless when you say temperature gauge, you mean pressure gauge?

If the oil is cold how can it be hot???? Unless when you say temperature gauge, you mean pressure gauge?

Hey mate, I don't know what it's called to be honest - you know, the gauage on the far right corner... has a picture of a oil can or something... always thought it was the engine / oil tempature gauage.

on a related topic...

after the car warms up, is it ok for the pressure to slighty fluctuate up and down onthat guage when on the throttle?

I'm trying a different oil this time and noticed that it rises with the throttle slightly (guessing the oil is thinner?)

The oil level is fine according to the dip stick

Using motul turboight this time, Ddnt use to happen when i used mobile1 which was thinner :S

The pressure should go up and down with revs...

For example...

idle. 1st dash...

3000rpm. half way

5000rpm. 3/4 of the way up...

As the engine is revving the oil pressure is rising.

What I meant was that when your oil is cold, it is thick, it takes a lot more effort to push it through the journals and oilways, and until the oil warms up the pressure reading is higher up to 7kg/cm2 [this also depends on the type of oil and its viscosity rating]. Once the oil warms up, it thins out to its specified viscosity and your oil pressure gauge starts reading 3.5-4.0kg. inversely on a stinking hot day your oil pressure can drop to 3.0-3.5 especially if your oil is old or needs changing.

I guess we've cleared it up pretty good fealls... I just to get worried too - as the pressure gauage used to flucate quite often. Guess it's normal... and I use Mobil1 in my car too.

Also noticed, if you increase the boost - the higher the boost, the more the pressure rises.

Also noticed, if you increase the boost - the higher the boost, the more the pressure rises.

Boost has nothing to do with oil pressure. Revs can change pressure. Your oil pump is mechanically driven, it is linked to the motor. So the more the motor revs, the more your oil pump spins, the greater the pressure. This is counterbalanced by the volume your pump can physically supply. It gets to a certain rev limit and no matter how hard it spins or increases revs, it physically cannot pump any more oil, it has reached its maximum flow rate. The maximum flow rate is also affected by the type of oil, the gallery and journal/bearing size, and the scavenge supply [if you flood the head and starve the bottom end supply].

Boost has nothing to do with oil pressure. Revs can change pressure. Your oil pump is mechanically driven, it is linked to the motor. So the more the motor revs, the more your oil pump spins, the greater the pressure. This is counterbalanced by the volume your pump can physically supply. It gets to a certain rev limit and no matter how hard it spins or increases revs, it physically cannot pump any more oil, it has reached its maximum flow rate. The maximum flow rate is also affected by the type of oil, the gallery and journal/bearing size, and the scavenge supply [if you flood the head and starve the bottom end supply].

Thanks for the extra information buddy - you've explained this well and in a way that is easy to understand - thank you mate!!

Regards,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...