Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just interested in what sort of times most of you n/a owners out there are pulling. My bro has a r33 gts and i just think his is an absolute freak of a skyline (theres a fair bit a driver skill involved, he really knows his car), but there hasnt been a stock n/a skyline that has beaten him and its pretty common for him to knock off stockish s13,s14,15,r32,r33 etc etc. So im keen to see what times in particular stockish r33's are pulling (no nos), but anyother n/a skyline owners that would like to share that would be good reading aswell. So i'll just give you the run down on my bros car and if you can follow a simular format that would make things easy to keep track.

thanks :P

Car: R33 Skyline GTS series 1

Transmission: Manual

Mods: Cold air, catback 2.5in exhaust, lots of timing

Tyres: 245/45

Track: Kwinana Motorplex

1/4 Mile time: 14.6

60foot time: 2.0

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179982-na-14-mile-performance/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im finding that very very hard to believe.. 245's are also very big tyres for an NA 33 to turn.. would like to see i time slip, MPH, air temp and RA, see sig for qtr times..

Edited by NA_R33

i dont have a timeslip but i can do you one better, i've uploaded the footage onto youtube i'll put a link in the next post cause i'm waiting for it to finish "processing" as it says on youtube

The car is definately running 245 wide tyres but they barely fit on his rims, the tyre fitter told him that he shouldnt really fit them and if they pop off he wasnt to be held liable lol, thats confidence for ya

I have no doubt there are freak cars out there and have a very good understanding of how and y it occurs. My car had headers, Tune, as mush timing as it would take custom cold air... When HPI did the NA supra Vs. Skyline Article the test drivers couldnt better a 15.7, A blueprinted engine with the same mods is not going to run over a second faster, especially with heavy rims and tyres...

Does the car run these times consistantly, or was it a timing glitch?

the car has run lots of 14 seconds passes, and has run 14.6 on three seperate occasions, with the quickest being the 14.60 on the video.

Theres nothing special about this car mod wise, stock motor, ecu etc etc, the only things changed is the igntion timing, cold air and a catback.

I just think it is a freak, every now and then you run into a stock car that does things it shouldnt.

So noone else here has cracked a 14s pass on the stock n/a?

sure your brother doesnt have a GTST?

hahaha no, its a stock gts. No turbo, no nos, no nothing. You can hear it in the video, its got the n/a exhaust tone.

There was a guy in a white 33 gtst on the same night running power fc, fmic, full zorst and i think boost around 12psi on the stock turbo and the best he got on the night was a 14.6 aswell hahaha, examples of people who can and cant drive.

On a side note, my bro has no mechanical sympathy, hes the type of guy that can just belt a car all day long, years on end and nothing will break lol lucky bastard

i've been mucking around with cars for a few years now and i can definately tell you this motor is stock, no "blue printing" no reground cams no aftermarket computer it is completely STOCK besides the mods i listed. And if anyone would know, my bro who has been a mechanic for quite a while now would know.

The car pulled 123rwhp and once again youtube will verify this once it has been uploaded woooohooo ;) (you will notice abit of smoke after the pull, good old piston blow-by lol)

This was done with a blocked cat, and the cat was replaced before the drags, which would of added around another 10hp i would say

if you can get a hold of a dyno graph that would be sweet.

simply put.. 120RWHP (90ish RWKW), does not equate to a mid-14 quarter mile in a full weight r33.

there must be a reason for it... and i'd like to find out and do whatever it is for myself ;)

that seems ways to quick the best i could get was a couple of 15.4/15.5s with mine when it was na and had a few bolt on's, you sure theres no flywheel drivline tranny diff mods?? i cant believe a stock na would be able to pull that time theres got to be something to.

is the ecu been modded??

okay, i'll just give you a quick run down with the dyno run cause its not a true indicator of the real power.

That dyno is extremely harsh for power readings, when my celica had a stock turbo on it it pulled 205fwhp on that dyno and i pulled a 13.3 down the quarter which didnt really reflect its power, so i went to a different dyno and pulled 267fwhp with the same mods. Now with that in mind, when that dyno run was down the car was having trouble beating my other bros twin cam corolla, but as soon as the cat was fixed he chopped it. So i would expect around 150ish hp on a "normal" dyno.

Once again, this car is STOCK STOCK STOCK STOCK STOCK. No ecu upgrades, No cams, the motor has not been touched besides the regular oil changes and timing belt. No lighten flywheel, it has a stock clutch, with stock lsd diff, and no super dooper carbon tailshaft. My bro has owned this car for about 8 years now and bought it from a car yard that imported it direct from japan and it was completely standard (standard intake, exhaust etc).

Simple things help to get this time, like he is one very harsh driver, the gearbox crunches every gear in daily driving but he still belts the shit out of it.

Fuel light is always on when he races to help save weight, same with the spare tyre and jack etc for the same reason. Theres heaps of little things you can do to help which seems like common sense but i constantly see cars go down with a full tank of fuel and i just shake my head, thats an extra 50kg that could of easily been taken off.

The main reason i started this thread was to see what times a stock skyline should pull cause i definately know his is a freak, pure and simple, i just didnt know that he was on average a second quicker than what the benchmark is. It maybe hard to believe, but like i said before it is stock

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...