Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After loads of searching i couldnt find anyone that has mentioned this before so im stumped

I've got oil, or what looks to be oil forming droplets on the end of the front tow hook

and in the space underneath the battery, in front of the wheel arch theres a build up of oil+dirt.

If it was water and dirt it would have dried up and be left with just dirt but it always seems to be wet around there

i dont know if its engine oil or not but i dont have any oil leaks that i know of and the dipstick is never low when i check it.

Plus where the "leak" is, its a little far from the engine.

I dont think it's coolant either since my radiator is still full from when i filled it a few weeks ago. and the liquid isnt green.

Is there anything around that area that could be leaking?

I cant for the life of me find where its coming from

Edit: see post #7 also

Edited by r32woohoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180327-oil-coming-from-unknown-hosespipes/
Share on other sites

Hmm looks like everyones leaning toward powersteering lines

my power steering doesnt feel any different though :S

ill have a closer look when the suns up

and yes did you just use any type of hose?

Well i seem to have narrowed it down to some pipes/hoses

only problem is i dont know what they're for or where they go

In my 32 they're the metal pipes in front of the radiator that sit on top of that black bottle type thing for the air con

You can see them circled in red. (not my engine but i dont have a photo of mine)

Since the power steering stuff (pump and reservoir) is on the other side of the engine i dont see how it could be related to that.

If i was to take a guess i would say they're somehow gearbox related? to cool the oil and such?

But ive never heard of a manual transmission oil cooler :whistling:

post-32393-1186777566_thumb.jpg

That's the power steering cooling line / pipe. Follow the pipes back into the engine bay and you'll see that the connect to hoses ( with clamps ). Make sure the clamps are tight and in good working order. Then check the hoses them selves for any signs of leakage.

To test the area for leaks, make sure your power steering fluid is at the correct level, then ( with the engine running ) get someone to operate the power steering from lock to lock while you hold a decent size piece of cardboard near the suspect area and look for any pressure spray / leakage ( don't use your hands because pressurised hydrualic fluid "could" wind up going through your skin & into your blood stream ).

See how you go with that :)

Its always power steering leaks on my car :)

booster were they the high pressure fitted hoses? who made them up for you?

No, just 10mm return lines, two near hicas solenoid and in and out of the cooler loop.

I previously paid $66 to have Enzed repair the high pressure line on my son's 32 when the hose section was cut in a crash.

Ahh yeah OK the high pressure hoses I found were expensive, was hoping for a cheaper alternative.

r32woohoo I think it was already answered, they are still power steering lines, they have a kind of crappy cooler from factory which sits there - there are basically a bunch of cooling fins on the pipe to reduce temps. On the 32 its even worse, power steering lines are everywhere (resoviour, steering rack, hicas solenoid, cooler and righ tto the back of the car). They are high pressure and old so they tend to leak a bit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...