Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Cell Into 32 Gtr - What Do I Need?

shanef

By shanef,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

Hey lads,

Well this arvo i found out i need to cut & shut the boot floor for the dry sump tank, and to also fit the surge tank i got fabbed. So i've decided to run a fuel cell (20gal) in the boot, and recess the boot floor down so i have enough height for the dry sump tank (atleast 22"), surge tank & fuel cell.

What i'm wanting to know, is what i need for the fuel cell system. I want to keep the std filling point in the rear right guard, and plumb that into the fuel cell filler neck. Keeping in mind it'd have to be ANDRA certified (planning on mid - low 10's, maybe 9's with a decent box).

What i have looked at so far is the following:

20 Gal Fuel Cell - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...rt=SUM-293220-S

Filler Neck - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-290191

Roll Over Valve - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G3114

Other would be piping to go from filler neck from the cell to the std filler location. Also wiring for the fuel level.

Can anyone give me advice on what else i'd need, and if there is anything i have to keep in mind when installing a cell.

cheers

Shane

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

first thing to notice is the sender units range "0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full" you will need to find a guage that runs in that range ..

could try measuring the std guages ohm readings at full and empty to see if you can use the std guage.

the tank has tabs for mounting, you will need to see if you can use an RHS or angle frame where the wheel well was if you are cutting that out and mounting under the car ... im not sure if the rules for Andra will require this to be enclosed in sheet metal or not... so you will need to investigate that.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
  • Author
Posted
first thing to notice is the sender units range "0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full" you will need to find a guage that runs in that range ..

could try measuring the std guages ohm readings at full and empty to see if you can use the std guage.

the tank has tabs for mounting, you will need to see if you can use an RHS or angle frame where the wheel well was if you are cutting that out and mounting under the car ... im not sure if the rules for Andra will require this to be enclosed in sheet metal or not... so you will need to investigate that.

i looked in my 32 gtr service manual and it said the stock gauge reads 6 ohms empty and 90 ohms full. so i'll just have to modify the circuit so it reads it correctly. (just going through electronics now and im starting to remember it all from high school :D)

what i was planning was to cut out the wheel well, and drop the boot floor down the required distance, and locate the cell inside the car, in the newly fabd well. Then mount the spare wheel under the car for them rego checks/defect checks.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

you will need to chat to an engineer as to the requirements of the reinforcement of the wheel well.

as for mounting the space saver under the car ... that might be an issue for height once you drop that wheel well down, im guessing your mounting the cell flush with the boot? so you'll need to drop it the 250 - 260 mm (approx 100mm lower than the std well im guessing)

here are some pics of a summit cell in a 240z - curtesy of Hybridz.org

IMG_0448.jpg

IMG_1509.jpg

IMG_0450.jpg

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

shaney poo....trent has a very simliar setup in his drift car to what your looking at. Since your dry sump setup will be the same as his and the fuel system we can basically do a simliar thing for your car if you want.

We can mount the tank on the passenger side of the boot cause thats where the lines will be run and then have your tank recessed down into the floor and just run hose from your std filling point on the drivers side to a neck on the tank. This is all piss easy mate.

Why not just leave your space saver inside the boot somewhere to the side?

Apologies about late reply, ive been abit slack lately.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you will need to chat to an engineer as to the requirements of the reinforcement of the wheel well.

as for mounting the space saver under the car ... that might be an issue for height once you drop that wheel well down, im guessing your mounting the cell flush with the boot? so you'll need to drop it the 250 - 260 mm (approx 100mm lower than the std well im guessing)

here are some pics of a summit cell in a 240z - curtesy of Hybridz.org

hmm yeh, just gotta find an engineer now lol

cheers for the pics, helpful indeed ;)

shaney poo....trent has a very simliar setup in his drift car to what your looking at. Since your dry sump setup will be the same as his and the fuel system we can basically do a simliar thing for your car if you want.

We can mount the tank on the passenger side of the boot cause thats where the lines will be run and then have your tank recessed down into the floor and just run hose from your std filling point on the drivers side to a neck on the tank. This is all piss easy mate.

Why not just leave your space saver inside the boot somewhere to the side?

Apologies about late reply, ive been abit slack lately.

i looked at just dropping the boot down in the left corner for the tank, but thats where the exhaust runs and it'll have to come too far down and it'll foul on the exhaust (unlike some i can't run side exit pipes, being a street car :banana:). Also i only need 3" if i put the dry sump tank in the wheel well, but then dropping that down will foul on the std fuel tank, as it runs right across the back under the well.

Ur slack, i've known that ever since day 1 :yes:

Dan's gonna have a squizz when he comes and does the clearances

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I would suggest if you are running dry sump resevoir and a 20gal fuel cell in the rear to forget about space saver spare at all. it will cause a lot of hassle. and in what sounds to be a pretty serious race car it's a waste of time having it anyway as you cannot race with it in there.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hey lads,

Well this arvo i found out i need to cut & shut the boot floor for the dry sump tank, and to also fit the surge tank i got fabbed. So i've decided to run a fuel cell (20gal) in the boot, and recess the boot floor down so i have enough height for the dry sump tank (atleast 22"), surge tank & fuel cell.

What i'm wanting to know, is what i need for the fuel cell system. I want to keep the std filling point in the rear right guard, and plumb that into the fuel cell filler neck. Keeping in mind it'd have to be ANDRA certified (planning on mid - low 10's, maybe 9's with a decent box).

What i have looked at so far is the following:

20 Gal Fuel Cell - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...rt=SUM-293220-S

Filler Neck - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-290191

Roll Over Valve - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G3114

Other would be piping to go from filler neck from the cell to the std filler location. Also wiring for the fuel level.

Can anyone give me advice on what else i'd need, and if there is anything i have to keep in mind when installing a cell.

cheers

Shane

A couple of questions:

1. Why do you want to carry so much fuel. 20 gallons is about 90 litres. I can't think why you need so much capacity?

2. You don't necessarilly have to gut the boot & redo everything. I have seen some neat installs without making a complete dogs breakfast down there.

post-5134-1187052086_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1187052250_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I would suggest if you are running dry sump resevoir and a 20gal fuel cell in the rear to forget about space saver spare at all. it will cause a lot of hassle. and in what sounds to be a pretty serious race car it's a waste of time having it anyway as you cannot race with it in there.

i'd forget about it if it was purely a track car. But im pretty sure i need the spare in there for street rego etc.

It started out as just a 26/30 conversion, then things just got way out of hand, as these builds tend to do :P

A couple of questions:

1. Why do you want to carry so much fuel. 20 gallons is about 90 litres. I can't think why you need so much capacity?

2. You don't necessarilly have to gut the boot & redo everything. I have seen some neat installs without making a complete dogs breakfast down there.

1. The convertor i use says 20gal = 75.7ltr or 20gal (UK) = 90.9ltr *shrugs*

2. I had a good look under the rear of the car sussing out if i could just cut it out for the dry sump tank, but theres either the exhaust in the road or the std fuel tank :thanks:

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

trents car ran a full exhaust system out the back......and his worked out. So it is possible...you dont need to recess the tank that far down...christ our tank drain bung sits flush with the bottom of our boot floor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...