Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

Have a question about me RB25DET s1 engine that im building.

My tourque wrench is one from work, our test department uses it. Its calibrated 2 times a year, and uses a dial gauge built in it. Goes from 0 - 80Nm.

Just tourqed down the main cradle, but now my crank sort of "binds".

When the crank just has been turned around, it will spin free, and only require ~2 N to be turned. (You cant really measure it as it really doesnt move on the dial.) Easy to turn by hand.

When the crank hasnt been turned for a minutte or so it "binds". Will need around ~5 N to get it to spin free again. (On the dial gauge you can only see it move, and then drops back to nothing as the crank begins to turn / frees it self from the "bind")

Is this just oil friction I have to overcome just when turned? or?? Could this be a problem?

Best Regards

Ronni

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/
Share on other sites

The applied force just need to be a little higher to get it to turn over when it has been standing still for a little minutte or so.

After it has begun to turn the applied force to turn it is close to nothing. It turn freely the hole way round. There are no spots were it feels more or less freely to turn.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/#findComment-3283101
Share on other sites

Have measured both crank and cradle, ordered correct bearings, got the ordered bearings. Mounted with clean surfaces (back side of bearing) and used plenty of motor oil to lubricate.

When it is turning it feels free and top nice. My only concern is what it is that is "holding" it when it hasnt rotated for a minutte or so. What i need to overcome for it to turn.. Could it just be oil friction? Because when using the tourque dial gauge the applied force to get it turning (when i have to overcome what is holding it) is only just the needle moving, only just moving, not even up on the dial...

But when it has just been turned, and then turned again there is nothing holding it. The needle doesnt move to turn it.

Tomorrow i will try with a different tourqe dial gauge. goes from 0 - 8N. Should be apple to see more accuratly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/#findComment-3283150
Share on other sites

On older engines, it was perfectly fine to use oil, i cannot comment on whether grease would have been better or worse. But I thought your not ment to use grease on ur main cap bearings.

What I can say, (which sounds like your describing), is that when the crank is stopped, its harder to get moving, then once its free its fine. then when u stop, it sort of sticks.

On the last rebuild on my v8. The crank did the same thing. and it was perfectly fine. If your really worried about it, borrow another torque wrench, and retorque it. and see if its the same.

since their is no oil pressure, the bearing oil hole and groove, can only pickup oil from spinning. when you sit still, the oil is pushed back off the bearing into the groove, you have to then spin it to pick up the oil into the hole and groove again.

Thing is, you must still be able to move it buy hand, at the correct torque. if its harder than that. its possibly too tight.

but i would rather a professional post here. as Im a novice. good luck.

Edited by silverbulletR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180559-is-this-okay/#findComment-3283710
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...