Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just wondering where the nut is for bleeding the air out ove the raidiator coz ive got new sfs raidiator pipes for it can some1 plz help me out??

Thank you

Edited by R334door(s2)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180625-how-to-bleed-the-raidiator/
Share on other sites

at the front of the plenum there is a 10mm bolt that goes into a little tube with a bracket with japanese writing next to it and it should say in english "never open when hot"

cool thanks mate life saver :nyaanyaa:

either that or get a 2lt coke bottle and cut the arse out of it fill it up with coolant, remove rad cap and place this in there, turn the car on and let it run for about 15-20mins it will also get rid of all the air, also top up if needed

either that or get a 2lt coke bottle and cut the arse out of it fill it up with coolant, remove rad cap and place this in there, turn the car on and let it run for about 15-20mins it will also get rid of all the air, also top up if needed

Do that but while you turn it on and idle.. Make sure the heater is turned on all the way.. (this opens the thermostat)

Make sure the car is cold when you do it.

Do that but while you turn it on and idle.. Make sure the heater is turned on all the way.. (this opens the thermostat)

Make sure the car is cold when you do it.

thanks for the info guys great help will do it tomoz thanks again :D

Do that but while you turn it on and idle.. Make sure the heater is turned on all the way.. (this opens the thermostat)

Make sure the car is cold when you do it.

turning on the heater doesnt open the thermostat, it just gets any air pockets that are in the heater lines out when you're bleeding the system. best thing to do is wait for the engine to come close to OT, then turn the heater on, then start bleeding.

turning the heater on will make the motor get to OT in longer time because you're pumping more coolant through the system.

its definitely good practice to turn your heater on when bleeding the system though.

as a fail safe, if your car ever over heats turn the heater on full blast so you get more coolant running through it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...