Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The jerking on downshift is basically independent of pucks. It's all a matter of driving style. The blip is called "heel-toeing'. The reason you get the jerk is that the engine and gearbox are not spinning at the same speed for the gear you are selecting. Heel-toeing matches the engine speed to the gearbox (road) speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3289078
Share on other sites

3 puk - http://clutchnet.com/photos/3button_solid02.jpg

5 puk - http://www.mpautoparts.co.nz/images/PukPanel.gif

as u can see, the more puk's the greater contact area on the flywheel and easier to drive it will be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3289966
Share on other sites

feel is best described as where in the peddle travel the clutch starts engaging and how suddenly.

With OEM clutches... they have no feel really... once you get a button you'll learn all about feel for the clutch :rofl:

thats for sure..

I use an Exedy Hyper Carbon Twin plate.....kinda crazy if u drive it in heavy traffic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3292113
Share on other sites

ok.

i guess i have a final question.

Out of the clutches below, which one is the easiest to drive??? and when I down gear, there will not have a shudder...

-5 puk ceramic button

-9 puk ceramic button

-cushion button

select one from the above. the main important point is that I do not want the car to shudder when down gear...

Cheers. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3296889
Share on other sites

Hear this

ALL CERAMIC/BRASS MATERIALS WILL SHUDDER ON DOWNSHIFT IF ENGINE REVS ARE NOT MATCHED!!

Its due to the nature of the materials used...doest matter how many pucks or whatever. if you do not rev match, then your pretty much slipping the clutch everytime you downchange.

But, as for most driveable.. a 9 puck cushioned button will be the most driveable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3297307
Share on other sites

Hong, going back a few posts a cushioned clutch has nothing to do with a sprug center rather a cushioning between each side of the clutch plates. A conventional button uses a single sheet of metal with puck either adhered or riveted to it. The Cushioned plates use two plates with a "spring" in-between. This "spring" takes the initial shock of the engagement rather then other driveline components such as gearboxes and diffs :laugh:

Bacially if the vehicle is mainly a daily driver, and a puck clutch is your preference, I would strongly suggest using a cushioned item.

The sprung center is purely a sound/vibration dampener.

If you need any further information or pricing on Genuine Exedy Clutch Kits drop me a line.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180905-5-puk-or-9-puk/#findComment-3297558
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...