Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has a very strong petrol smell when idle, its not leaking into the cabin, but if i am just starting up the car and have the door open, or idle at a drive through with the windows down.. it pretty smelly. the exhaust is not smokey or anything :S

is this normal..

its my first car so ive got nothing to comare it to but mums magna and dads astra dont smell this much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181257-strong-petrol-smell-when-idle/
Share on other sites

My car has a very strong petrol smell when idle, its not leaking into the cabin, but if i am just starting up the car and have the door open, or idle at a drive through with the windows down.. it pretty smelly. the exhaust is not smokey or anything :S

is this normal..

its my first car so ive got nothing to comare it to but mums magna and dads astra dont smell this much.

I am driving a NA S2 R33 as well, experiencing similar problems when im idling especially when the engine is cold...till today, i cant figure out wats wrong with it.....didnt notice any leaks from the injectos though

hows ur consumption like?

btw nice S2 u got there

thanks, consumption is excellent about 450km per tank. and yeah i must agree when its cold its a lot worse. i have no modifications except a muffler tip.

it doesn't seem like a big problem, i can live with it. just was curious to see if any other people get the same thing

Mine smells only on cold start, once its warm you cant smell a thing

I presume because the ecu runs it rich while warming up

I had leaking injectors also but i got that fixed, before that the petrol smell was always there.

is the smell in and around the engine bay? or unburnt fuel coming from the exhaust?

if it's the later then you're just running rich idle

it is the later

very much from the exhaust

Mine does it too, S1 33 n/a, when i hop out i sometimes get a huge wiff of it. usually near the driver side door i smell it more..

I only get like 300k's a tank prob the way i drive though and alot of little trips

yeah my old series 2 used to do that, my new one doesnt, both n/a

it used to stink like rotten egg's/petrol.

no idea what it was as my car was completely stock with under 100,000k's...aparently

i put on a 3 inch cannon onto the stock system and this made it 100 times worse. i think the ecu makes the car run rich to protect it from something..as you can tell i dont know much about cars.

i get around 350k's to a tank....i think.

at least i know im not the only one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...