Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my space saver is gooooooooone

I have spare rims and tyres though for different events, so worst case I would leave the car where it is and go and get the spare rims and tools to jack the car up and put them on... Normally requires a friend or two as well... Hasn't happened yet but it wouldn't be that big of a deal for me...

as Jack said......you dont have to ditch the spare or jack, just be more creative in the install and at least carry a can of "fix a flat" stuff

I hate depending on others if my car gets a flat and certainly dont want to leave it on the road to go get help while the crims get leasure time for parts stripping.

  • 4 weeks later...
I've just finshed installing a set of new Boston PRO60 SE's in my R34 in Bi-wire/bi-amp formation and they sound fantastic. With over 70rms delivered to each woofer and tweeter in the car the sound stage delivers sounds I NEVER knew existed in songs! Surely worth the 1k or so they are worth

Next is to replace the subs I blew - Who knew you could actually blow 1000wrms subs!

Quality is always worth paying 4 isn't it, wait till you hear the sound guy or producer through the singers earphones

I asube by Bi-wire you mean one amp for left chanel and one for the right. I had my old civic (EZB00M 4 the old Central coasties) setup like that an I loved it. Will never mix my lefts and rights again...

and yes a 10W amp can blow up a 100W sub, seen it done. How you say .... DISTORTION, without going into the dynamics of cone movement vs Electrical input, distortion = heat, heat in subs and heat in amps. nasty nasty stuff....

Im plan'n one a stealth install as I drive mine daily and have little kids, I'm thinkn of a pair of 10" mounted where the back doors normally go (r33 coupe) in a glass box. does anyone know if theres any gear in there already.

Maybe whent the kidz get a bit older I bight think of a trio of 15z, hehe just dreamn

P.S.

l_uk3y

not pickn onya mate, its a common misbeleif. Caps are not useless, ... unless you don't need one that is!

So what does the cap do... easy fills in the transients. that is to say when a base beat hits hard, your amps pull lots of current, that current heats up your 0,2,4 guage cable, raising its resistance theirfore raising the voltage LOST over the cables (+ & -). that means less fuel 4 the amp,

the other advantage of a cap is speed. Batery can only put out so much current so fast (see CCA rating) caps are so much faster at this

so @ the end you get slightly more power to the subs(less voltage lost on pwr cables) but mostly more punch/impact from those big suddden hits ( easiest to notice with songs with lots of drums)

speaking of the old girl some quick details

2 x Alpine MRV F400's one left chanel one right ( both in bridged mode)

2 x 12" alpine ZR subs

5.25 MB quarts, up front run of amp

4" Pioneer in rear of deck(also cut cap in tweeter to disable) I like my sound from the front of the car... just my preference, afterall I don't go to a live gig and stand with my back to the band

1farad cap

Quality is always worth paying 4 isn't it, wait till you hear the sound guy or producer through the singers earphones

I asube by Bi-wire you mean one amp for left chanel and one for the right. I had my old civic (EZB00M 4 the old Central coasties) setup like that an I loved it. Will never mix my lefts and rights again...

and yes a 10W amp can blow up a 100W sub, seen it done. How you say .... DISTORTION, without going into the dynamics of cone movement vs Electrical input, distortion = heat, heat in subs and heat in amps. nasty nasty stuff....

Im plan'n one a stealth install as I drive mine daily and have little kids, I'm thinkn of a pair of 10" mounted where the back doors normally go (r33 coupe) in a glass box. does anyone know if theres any gear in there already.

Maybe whent the kidz get a bit older I bight think of a trio of 15z, hehe just dreamn

P.S.

l_uk3y

not pickn onya mate, its a common misbeleif. Caps are not useless, ... unless you don't need one that is!

So what does the cap do... easy fills in the transients. that is to say when a base beat hits hard, your amps pull lots of current, that current heats up your 0,2,4 guage cable, raising its resistance theirfore raising the voltage LOST over the cables (+ & -). that means less fuel 4 the amp,

the other advantage of a cap is speed. Batery can only put out so much current so fast (see CCA rating) caps are so much faster at this

so @ the end you get slightly more power to the subs(less voltage lost on pwr cables) but mostly more punch/impact from those big suddden hits ( easiest to notice with songs with lots of drums)

speaking of the old girl some quick details

2 x Alpine MRV F400's one left chanel one right ( both in bridged mode)

2 x 12" alpine ZR subs

5.25 MB quarts, up front run of amp

4" Pioneer in rear of deck(also cut cap in tweeter to disable) I like my sound from the front of the car... just my preference, afterall I don't go to a live gig and stand with my back to the band

1farad cap

R34 coupe has enough room if you do some metal cutting of the main body shell, which is defect in adelaide and most likely with ADR , everwhere ?

the volume is roughly enough for a sealed box sub depending on how crazy you go on remolding your rear panels , you could hide 8" or 6.5" and use factory panels with some retrim for the sound to get out.

ps. Hint if you own a R34 the steel panels behind the rear seat and in the rear sides are crazy heavy ...lol

the same thickensss Carbon fibre laminates save a ton of weight and are 5 times stronger then steel

without the rear one your rear end chassis flex will be noticed, I tested it in a very basic way..lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...