Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Gah shouldnt have gone, all i could think about from after my run until now is what i need to do/spend in order to get more power and beat Leighs Forester haha.

142.2kW :)

On the topic of redemption, what are some good starts for upgrades, goal is set at 200kW by the next dyno day.

Cejay warned me about this at the Shannons Wheels haha "Lets see how long you leave it stock"

Was a lot of fun though, had to head off early though to get some things done in canberra before heading back to work so probably missed some good runs, dam work :X

DYNO DAY RESULTS

323 Turbo Nic W 89.0

VRV8 SS Como Julian C 132.0

R33 GTS-T Baconer 142.9

Forester XTL Leech 146.5 @ 4 wheels

WRX Daniel 152.2 @ 4 wheels

R33 GTS-T Towlie 152.4

R33 GTS-T Frink 154.1

R31 Jester 159.3

Liberty Raymond 162.5 @ 4 wheels

R32 GTS-T rb20tR32 177.0

XR6 Turbo ute Superfly 194.0

NIZ 67R R33 GTR Car yard 203.5

EF XR8 Stewart 204.8

JAZ70 Supra TT Leigh 205.3

Falcon Turbo Andrew 220.6

R33 GTS4 (rb26) Jeremy 242.6 @ 4 wheels

R33 GTS-T Adam 265.0

R33 GTR a20089 266.5 @ 4 wheels

The day was a great success with $110 raised on the day. With the Generous donation of $50 on Friday night and the $30 Ladybytes has, we now have $190.

Please post your dyno sheets and mods in the appropriate forced induction thread, even if stock they help others gauge their cars performance.

Thank you everyone for coming out and especially to FRINK for bringing so many friends.

Edited by a20089

Big props to a20089 for organising the day I thought it went very well and it has a much more group/social feeling to it than other dyno areas having that big screen. Plus I must say I was very impressed with the way Ultimate tunes handled the day as well... they had more than enough staff on hand, were happy to explain exactly what everything meant and even customised my dyno run when I asked them too so thanks Christian and the boys. Let me know when you can do some work with 07 XT foresters :P

Also i know it's not a skyline but here is my dyno sheet :P

post-5695-1190451528_thumb.jpg

Thanks for a well organised day. Yeah, there sure were plenty of people looking after each run, which was nice. I'm pretty (well, very) happy with how my car went. I should thank Julian (widebody32) for getting it in its current shape!

It was good to meet you John, and to catch up with Ben (Sl33py).

Even though I couldn't stick around for the whole day yeah was great fun! Thanks John/a20089. as Adam said, good to catch up with the people we've met previously, and meet new ppl - Luke et al. Yeah the big screen made it more social, instead of cramming in and craning your neck to see a tiny CRT on a desk :P Wish my car was ready, but at any rate I'll definitely go back there for a run when it is. Very nice setup at Ultimate Tunes.

Also good to see that (assuming my car runs as it did last time), it's pretty healthy compared to other R33s :P Hope those who can will post their runs as suggested above!

The R31 was impressive (think Jester was suprised as well from his response "WTF is THAT??!" hahah), a20089 - did you catch the dyno guys choking with all the fuel in the room? hahaha And what was emblem on the front of the Liberty that looked like and L and then another upside down L underneath it? Some japanese badge?

Time for an avatar change Adam? heheh - thanks for the quick spin!

Edit: haha changed your avatar before I could correct my typo :D

Edited by sl33py
Also i know it's not a skyline but here is my dyno sheet :P

haha dam, all i wanted was to just beat yours and you out did me by 4kW

I'll get you next time, the bug is implanted now :P

Edited by Baconer

And, just like that, my car is now up for sale (much to sl33py's dismay I'm sure).

Here's the link for anyone interested in seeing the dyno sheet, if not the rest.

I'm doing it a little sooner than I'd imagined.. and I'm feeling pretty crap right about now; but who knows, maybe I won't get any bites and I can keep it a while longer :(

I figured I'd try and let go of it while the going was good. Maybe I'll actually be able to start saving again!

Haha.. oh well, it's a decision we all have to make sooner or later. I plan to drive mine until fossil fuels become illegal :( Having said that, only 20 minutes ago, I just found out my steering rack is munted and needs reconditioning/fixing, and it's tie rod ends are buggered as well. Another 1k into the black hole!

Haha.. oh well, it's a decision we all have to make sooner or later. I plan to drive mine until fossil fuels become illegal :D Having said that, only 20 minutes ago, I just found out my steering rack is munted and needs reconditioning/fixing, and it's tie rod ends are buggered as well. Another 1k into the black hole!

Damn, sorry to hear that. Bloody cars! :(

Very nice setup at Ultimate Tunes.

a20089 - did you catch the dyno guys choking with all the fuel in the room? hahaha And what was emblem on the front of the Liberty that looked like and L and then another upside down L underneath it? Some japanese badge?

Yep, of all the cars, mine pumped the most fumes. It was like a 80's dance party with dirty smoke.

The emblem is some special one, unsure what is was exactly, I'll have to ask Raymond.

Hate to hear you need more repairs. I guess I'm happy to live with a dirty rear end if the rest of the car doesn't break down.

Edited by a20089

It shouldn't cost anywhere near that for reco rack and tie rod ends.

If you want a quote i can find out tomorrow from Active.

I just found out my steering rack is munted and needs reconditioning/fixing, and it's tie rod ends are buggered as well. Another 1k into the black hole!

Gday widebody32: From memory of the phone call - it's 400 to reco the rack, but 700 if the pinion is buggered, or something about leaking (which he suspects), and 120 for each tie rod end. I think that's fitted.

Edited by sl33py

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...