Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well ive been looking into getting a bov and was looking at the greddy ones. will they fit to the stock pipe where the bov is now. if not what do i need to make it fit. also where could i put it and replace the pipe thats on there now. and the black rubber pipe thats going into that silver pipe what is that. if i want to replace that silver pipe for a polished pipe do i need to still have that rubber pipe if i move the bov to another location? hope thats not to confusing.

engine2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The Greddy ones will fit in the stock location, you'll need to tap two holes

As with the backfiring and stalling, if you tighten it up enough, reset the ECU and drive it for a bit you should be fine, but even then, once in a while it can stall

Also in some states in Australia it is illegal, here in NZ it's fine, but they sound pretty wanktastic so why bother, unless you are running a lot of HP and an ECU that can adjust the fuel mixture so the engine leans out when changing gear to accomodate the air rushing out of the BOV and not returning into the intake

Just add a POD filter, it'll give you the same kind of noise

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3297294
Share on other sites

i recently put an atmo bov on my crossover... car was running pretty crappy, but i went round and tightened and changed my hoses and runs well, but as R31nismoid could make it run poorly, backfire or stall, but if thats the case its a matter of adjusting your driving style to suit...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3297296
Share on other sites

as skybarge said you can get a pod filter and block up where the bov goes... i at one stage had my bov disabled and with the HKS pod i had a mad flutter sound and loud too... but some people may tell u it can harm your turbo as the flutter sound is air getting pushed back into the turbo and getting cut up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3297300
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack, i didnt think you could adjust the ssqv's? either way going atmo on mine the car would randomly stall(sometimes going around corners at 8o ks, very scary) but eventually the ecu worked it out and i havent had any trouble for months

Yep.

The SSQ have a screw at the top which is the adjustment screw.

If you wind that screw in it will open on higher boost/high RPM as it requires more pressure, and if you wind that screw out that will release the tension on the BOV and it will open up on a lower boost/RPM.

Its more like a bolt rather than a screw, and it has a little nut on it in-between the head of the bolt and the surface of the BOV.

Hope that helps :laugh:

Thanks,

Abu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3297387
Share on other sites

All I know is that as your dumping the air that the AFM has already measured the ECU will crap itself regardless of the tightness of the spring. The only BOV which i have seen that tries to combat this AFM problem is the GFB Stealth where you can adjust how much air is vented to atmo and how much is plumbed back. But.... you are still dumping air the AFM has measured hence the ecu will compensate by overfuelling so causing stalls,backfires etc. Ive heard of people purchasing Fuel piggyback computers like the Apexi SAFC. If you want the noise then go for a pod but then u'll encounter another list of dilemnas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3297627
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info guys, i am currently having my GTS converted to rb25det and was wondering about the problems with BOV's good thread with good information, i was thinking about going to GFB stealth because of its adjustability, I will be running:

rb25DET

After market Hybrid FMIC with alloy piping, Apexi Air Pod, Apexi Full auto timer for NA and Turbo.

Recommendations?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3299925
Share on other sites

rofl, another BOV thread.

Stock one:

Car won't stall

Car won't backfire

Cops won't defect you

You'll drive around and sound normal

After Market Vent to the atmosphere, whooshspinning twirly hurricane attention attracting one:

Cops will defect you

Cops will go harder on "jap" cars because you're another person with a big loud whoosh, trying to be a dickhead

Car will stall

Car will backfire

Car will blow flames, cops will defect you

Chicks will hear it, get instantly wet, and come running at your car wanting sex

Everyone around you will immediately think your cool and want to be your friend

You'll foul your spark plugs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3299985
Share on other sites

plumb back is the best recommendation for everyone, atmo bov's and blocked bov's get annoying after a while and like everyone said theres not much benefits to them

i understand if you have a SR20 its a bit harder to make a return pipe for the bov, but for the skylines i think its easier to remake one cos the standard return pipe is like a pea shooter that bends and turns 100 times

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3300019
Share on other sites

Chicks will hear it, get instantly wet, and come running at your car wanting sex

Everyone around you will immediately think your cool and want to be your friend

omg bro dat's so true uleh! Jus like ma cousin habib's vl. Da chick's luv it fully hectik uleh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3300044
Share on other sites

rofl, another BOV thread.

Stock one:

Car won't stall

Car won't backfire

Cops won't defect you

You'll drive around and sound normal

After Market Vent to the atmosphere, whooshspinning twirly hurricane attention attracting one:

Cops will defect you

Cops will go harder on "jap" cars because you're another person with a big loud whoosh, trying to be a dickhead

Car will stall

Car will backfire

Car will blow flames, cops will defect you

Chicks will hear it, get instantly wet, and come running at your car wanting sex

Everyone around you will immediately think your cool and want to be your friend

You'll foul your spark plugs

have u got proof backing up all those claims????

cops WILL defect you regardless of stock bov if they wanted to, when i had a atmo bov i did not have problems stalling, or shooting flames, or being defected.

if ur gonna be a dickhead shooting your BOV every gear down every street passing every person, expect to get it.

but if ur smart about it (not making the bov crome so it stands out in the engine baY) and driving normally. its fine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181546-another-bov/#findComment-3300062
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...