Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ah sounds like some bad shits bin happenin mines safely tucked away from the world i will bring it out soon after i settle into my new place and btw cammo i can take good pictures , i think . lol but it will be for 2009 i reckon i will have april. but i will put up some eg's on what ideas ive come up with and u guys can tell me your opinions

yea i wish i had a shed to put mine away in maybe later wen i get my own place paying for the diff 2morrow should be here tuesday next week ;) a few people said since my diff went my gearbox isent to far away ;) wat u think people like its not like i snaped the ceantre in half just a few bolts were loose

I'll try to!! lol there was a bunch of group shots and other peoples too. Not all of my car....

sorry kinda just presume everyone's on broadband and it doesn't matter..

We should organise a photo shoot day!!

Fab, i'd tend to agree and say your Gb won't be far off.. how's it feel?

Guest Rexlr8

Fab bro, if your box feel's a bit loose and shit. Wack in some Nulon Gearbox treatment. 250mls. Cost you $15 max at Supercheap. It made my box feel so much better. Specially changin gears hard and fast and i have awd box which is far weaker then yours.

But to be on the safe side get Camello to do a G-box change at same time. :/ Then wack in the treatment. Might think treatments are shit but dont knock it till you've tried it. It doesnt harm your box, and serioulsy, i was really impressed with it. It lowered my synchro problem from being loud and able to hear it over my music to being really quiet and smoother.

And if you have some Dollars to spare. Buy Redline gearbox oil. Have to order of the net, cause repco and supercheap have never heard of it, and ASAP wont order it.

That can cost you all up, $220. But thats what i would do for my box shortley.

Edited by Rexlr8

yea jame shouldent be any more then 200 i just need to see wat price group the paint is but be lucky to reach the 200 doller mark just get the guard ill paint it then ill giv it to u to fit up

Edited by fab34
Guest Rexlr8

Thats a pretty good price man

For all who doesnt know, Joynas lancer is off the road for a while. Lisa dodged a dog and spun around and hit a tree.

I had a look at it today, and i tell you what, people can over exaggerate lol. Its just side fender, door, bonnet and replace the kit. The kit was already f**ked so why not.

Plus 4 brand new rims which he can pick up cheap. It really looks like some kids just smashed it up a bit. Thats all.

Just thought i'd pass that on for people who didnt know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...